Chunar Fort

2022-11-20T05:52:31Z

27.5.29.193:

{{Use dmy dates|date=April 2017}}
{{Use Indian English|date=April 2017}}
{{Infobox military installation
|name = Chunar Fort
|partof =[[Chunar|Chunar City]]
|location =[[Mirzapur]] [[Uttar Pradesh]], India
|image = North view of the fort of Chunargarh on the Ganges from across the river..jpg
|caption = North view of the fort from across the Ganges River.
|map_type = Uttar_Pradesh
|map_size = 300
|map_caption =
|type = [[Fort]]
|coordinates = {{coord|25.1255|82.8747|type:landmark|display=inline}}
|code =CAR
|built = Eleventh century and improvements in sixteenth century
|builder = King Sahadeo in 1029
|materials = ''Chunar'' [[sandstone]]
|height = {{Convert|280|ft|m}}
|used =
|demolished =
|condition =
|open_to_public = Yes
|controlledby = [[Archaeological Survey of India]] [[Ministry of Tourism (India)|Ministry of Tourism]]
|garrison =
|current_commander =
|commanders =
|occupants =
|battles = |events =
|image2 =
|caption2 =
}}

The '''Chunar Fort''' (also known as '''Chandrakanta Chunargarh''' and '''Charanadri''') is located in [[Mirzapur district]] of [[Uttar Pradesh]], in [[India]]. Along with [[Chunar|Chunar town]], near [[Mirzapur|Mirzapur city]], situated below the fort, the two are historic places with common history and legends.<ref name=Mirza>{{Cite web|url=http://mirzapur.nic.in/chunar.htm |title=Mirzapur |access-date=8 November 2012 |publisher=Official web site of the district by National Informatics Center |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120222112432/http://mirzapur.nic.in/chunar.htm |archive-date=22 February 2012 }}</ref> It is located {{convert|34|km}} North west of [[Mirzapur]]. The southeastern part of the fort is on the rocky bank of the [[Ganges River]]. The fort's history spans from 56 BC and then between [[Afghans|Afghan]] decedent [[Sher Shah Suri]]'s (1532) rule, the [[Mughal Empire]] rule ([[Humayun]], [[Akbar]] and many others including [[Nawab of Awadh]]) up to 1772, and Marathas in 1782 to 1804. Lastly, the [[British Raj]] occupied the fort to 1947 when India gained independence.<ref name="Thornton1858">{{cite book|last=Thornton|first=Edward|title=A Gazetteer of the Territories Under the Government of the East India Company and of the Native States on the Continent of India|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=55BbvGEV5uAC&pg=PA215|access-date=11 November 2012|edition=Public domain|year=1858|publisher=W. H. Allen|pages=215–216}}</ref> [[Chunar railway station]] is on the [[Pt. Deen Dayal Upadhyaya–Kanpur section]] of [[Howrah–Delhi main line]].

==Geography==
Chunar Fort is approached by road from [[Mirzapur]] over a distance of {{Convert|20|mi|km}} and along the Ganges River by river craft, a {{Convert|30|mi|km}} journey. [[Calcutta]] is {{Convert|437|mi|km}} away and is {{Convert|14|mi|km}} south west of Varanasi.<ref name= "Thornton1858"/> The structure is located in the Mirzapur district, {{Convert|14|mi|km}} south west of Varanasi, and lies between Varanasi and Mirzapur. The town of the same name is part of the fort's administration.
[[File:The Fort, Chunar (U.P.). 12 September 1803.jpg|left|thumb|250px|Painting of the fort (1803).]]
The fort stands on a rock, a detached part of the [[Vindhya Range]],<ref name="Sharma1999">{{cite book|last=Sharma|first=Shripad Rama|title=Mughal Empire in India: A Systematic Study Including Source Material|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=OnP0Lcp0TGoC&pg=PA75|access-date=11 November 2012|date=1 January 1999|publisher=Atlantic Publishers & Dist|isbn=978-81-7156-817-8|pages=75–}}</ref> at an elevation of {{Convert|280|ft|m}} above sea level. It was built in a commanding position, high above a meander in the [[Ganges River]], near the [[Kaimur Range|Kaimur Hills]]. The approach to Chunar Hill is marked by a chain of low hills, running parallel to the river on its right bank, which is covered by plantations and bungalows. The fort is located on a rock which rises abruptly from the plain, and encroaches into the river for some distance.<ref name=Sept>{{Cite web|url=http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/onlineex/apac/other/019wdz000000100u00000000.html|title= The Fort, Chunar (U.P.). 12 September 1803|access-date=9 November 2012|publisher= Online Gallery of British Library}}</ref> The southeastern part of the fort is on the rocky bank by the Ganges River, which is navigable for 50- to 60-ton boats. The batteries in the fort command the river reach. The rocky bluff rising from the river on which the fort has been built raises to a height of {{Convert|104|ft|m}}. Another {{Convert|200|ft|m}} further away, the elevation of the rocky hillock is {{Convert|280|ft|m}}.<ref name= "Thornton1858"/><ref name=North>{{Cite web|url=http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/onlineex/apac/addorimss/n/019addor0003214u00000000.html|title= North view of the fort of Chunargarh on the Ganges from across the river.|access-date=9 November 2012|publisher= Online Gallery of British Library}}</ref>

The rocky face of the fort is impregnable because of its steep slope. Many crude cylinders were stored in the fort that defenders could roll down onto any enemy soldiers attacking the fort. Most of the enclosed fort area consists of plains overgrown with grass and a few trees.

==Legends==
There are many legends linking the fort to divine aspects. One such is the story of [[King Bali]]. God, known in these parts as ''[[Vamana|Bawan Bhagwan]]'', appeared before Bali, disguised as a [[Brahmin]], and begged for three feet of land. The generous king agreed. God placed his first step on the hill of Chunar Fort and left his foot mark there. Since then it is known as "Charanadri", which over the years took the short form of "Chunar".<ref name=Mirza/>

The second legend is king [[Vikramāditya]] of [[Ujjain]]. His brother [[Bharthari (king)|Bharthari]], who opted to live the life of a hermit, started living near the rockface of Chunar. Realising his brother's situation, Vikramadiathya visited Chunar, and after finding out his brother's whereabouts through the hermit [[Goraknath]], built a house for his brother to live in. The black stone where the saint Bhatinath lived and prayed is worshiped even now, as it is believed that Bhatinath is seated in the fort area in an invisible form.<ref name=Mirza/>

A third legend linked the fort to the well known king of Rajasthan. [[Prithviraj Chauhan|Prithviraj]] brought this settlement under his rule and also many neighbouring villages. Subsequent to his demise, his descendants sold the land to Khair-ud-din Subuktagin. An inscription (not very legible) in [[Sanskrit]] on the gateway of the fort mentions that the place had been taken over by Swami Raja, who had established a stone tablet recording the event. Later, the fort was acquired by Sahab-ud-din, who in turn appointed a ''[[sanidi]]'', an [[Ethnic groups of Africa|African]], and a [[Bahelia]], and gave them titles as ''hazari'' (meaning "governors of the fort"), and also conferred a ''[[jagir]]''. It is said that the Bahelia family were in possession of the land holdings till the fort was finally ceded to the British in 1772.<ref name=Mirza/>

==History==
[[File:Shershah.jpg|left|thumb|200px|Sher Khan, notable in the history of Chunar Fort, later known as Sher Shah Suri]]
Settlements have been recorded here since 56 BC, from the time of Vikramāditya of Ujjain.<ref name=Chunar>{{Cite web|url=http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/onlineex/apac/other/019wdz000001697u00000000.html|title=Chunar Fort on the Ganges (U.P.). 3 August 1822|access-date=9 November 2012|publisher= Online Gallery of British Library}}</ref> Chunar's earliest recorded history is from the sixteenth century, traced to a garrison of [[Babur|Babar]], when in 1529, many of his soldiers were killed; some of their tombs in Chunar are still venerated.<ref name=Mirza/><ref name= "Thornton1858"/> In 1532, Sher Khan (later known as Sher Shah Suri after he captured [[Bengal]]), a highly ambitious [[Pathan]] of Afghan descent but born in district of [[Narnaul]] in the present day state of [[Haryana]] in India, took control of the fort with high ambitions of becoming the King in Delhi. He acquired Chunar Fort by strategic marriages to enhance his reputation, first with a childless widow (the wife of the deceased Governor of Chunar),<ref name=Mirza/> and by marrying another widow, he acquired wealth. With these acquisitions, he became very powerful within four years and established a "state within a state". It is also said that the fort was not vital for Sher Khan as he had moved his harem and treasure to [[Rohtas Fort|Rohtas]] (a newly won fort in the upper reaches of [[Son River]]) during his campaign to win Bengal.<ref name= "Thornton1858"/><ref name= "Eraly2000">{{cite book|last= Eraly |first= Abraham |title= Emperors of the Peacock Throne: The Saga of the Great Mughals |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=04ellRQx4nMC|publisher= Penguin Books India |year=2000|isbn=9780141001432|pages=50–51, 78}}</ref> When Emperor Humayun attacked the fort and held it in siege for four months, he had proposed to Sher Khan that he would not claim Chunar and [[Jaunpur, Uttar Pradesh|Jaunpur]] and any other place of his choice, provided he gave up [[Bengal]], which Sher Khan had won. Humayun also demanded from Suri the surrender of his treasure which he had taken to Bengal and a precious ([[chattar]]) umbrella and throne, and also to agree to be under the protection of the Mughal Empire.<ref name= "Eraly2000"/> He finally succumbed to pressure and signed a deal with Humayun. However, Sher Khan recaptured it when he Humayun marched towards Bengal. After Sher Shah's death in 1545 it remained under his son Islam Shah until 1553. The last of Suris dynasty Adil Shah remained confined to the fort till 1556 handing over the entire administration and military powers to the Hindu Prime Minister [[Hemu]]. Hemu launched many attacks from this fort winning several battles across north India and even captured [[Delhi]] after the [[Battle of Tughlaqabad]] in 1556 and declared independence from the [[Sur Empire]] and crowned himself as king. Adil Shah remained in this fort, who lost life in an attack by king of Bengal in 1557. Fort came under the control of the Mughals in 1575.
[[File:Akbar - Project Gutenberg eText 14134.jpg|thumbnail|right|200px|Mughal Emperor Akbar]]

Akbar, the third Mughal Emperor, had visited Chunar for [[Hunting#Indian subcontinent|shikar]] (hunting) in 1575. He acquired it as he considered the fort strategically located to guard the Ganges and the major land routes to [[East India|eastern India]]. Abul al Fazl described this victory over the fort by Akbar an important event. It is believed that much of the fort as seen now was built during Akbar's reign.<ref name= "Asher 1992">{{cite book|last= Asher |first= Catherine B.|title = Architecture of Mughal India, Part 1, Volume4|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=3ctLNvx68hIC&pg=PA90|publisher= Cambridge University Press|year=1992|isbn=9780521267281|pages=88–90 }}</ref> During his rule, the west gate was built in the fort entrance, with the date 1586 having been engraved on the stone archway. During the Mughal rule, [[Jahangir|Emperor Jahangir]] had nominated Iftikhar Khan as the fort's [[nazim]]. During the reign of [[Aurangzeb|Emperor Aurangzeb]], his appointee for Governor of the fort, Mirza Bairam Khan, constructed a mosque here in 1663, near the Bharion Burj.<ref name="Mirza" />During the Maratha Sway, The Kalinjar Infantry of Marathas used to levy Chauth from Benaras Suba whose area extended to Chunar. In 1764, The Kalinjar Maratha cavalry captured the Fort to punish Nawab of Rampur for their debacle at Panipat. The Marathas continued to attack the fort till 1804 following their treaty with Chait Singh. It was a bone of contention between Marathas and Nawab of Rampur. In 1794 The Marathas under Yashwant rao Bhatt of Kalinjar sacked Benaras and killed the Nawab Hazimir Khan in battle of Benaras. The fort of Chunar was held by Bargahi and Bagheliya fighters, who were mercenaries employed by Nawab.
Battle Of Chunar: 21 Jan 1794 The Marathas attacked Chunar fort with full cavalary and captured it. The leader of resistance was killed and rest fled. The fort was handed over to Raja of Benaras, for 2.5 lakhs of cauth per year. In 1804 Marathas ceded all their territories in Bundelkhand to East India Company following their defeat in the second Anglo-Maratha war.
The [[British East India Company]], under [[Sir Thomas Munro, 1st Baronet|Major Munro]], attacked the fort; though initially they lost ground, they subsequently breached the south west part of the fort and annexed it. The fort with all its territory was formally ceded under a treaty to the East India Company in 1818. For some years, the fort was the main artillery and ammunition depot of the Northwestern Provinces.<ref name= "Thornton1858"/> Maharaja [[Chait Singh]] of [[Benares State|Benares]] had taken possession of the fort temporarily but was evicted. In 1857, he raised a rebellion in Varanasi and near the villages around the fort.

It is also said that [[Warren Hastings]], the first [[Governor-General of India]] (1773 to 1784) took shelter in the Chunar Fort.<ref name=Maharaja>{{Cite web|url=http://varanasi.nic.in/tourist/tourist8.html|title=Chunar:History|access-date=10 November 2012|publisher=National Informatic Center|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20041023043401/http://varanasi.nic.in/tourist/tourist8.html|archive-date=23 October 2004|url-status=dead}}</ref> A small armed force was collected under Major [[Home Riggs Popham]] and Chait Singh was eventually evicted from his control of neighboring areas.<ref name=Mirza/><ref name=Chunar/> For sometime in 1791, Chunar Fort became the headquarters of an invalid battalion of [[Europe]]an and Indian troops serving in India; those officers and men who were considered medically unsuitable for field duty were shifted to this fort and given light duty. From 1815, the fort also housed the state prisoners. In India's [[India's First War of Independence (term)|first Freedom struggle]], also known as [[Sepoy Mutiny]] of 1857–58, the fort was the safe ground of the artillery and infantry company of the European invalid Battalion and all also to the officers and European residents of the district. The Bhartri Nath's shrine here was also used for some time as the civil treasury. After 1890, troops were withdrawn from the fort. The building's complex within the fort became the property of the civil administration who used this place as a convalescent jail. Subsequently, it became a religious centre.<ref name=Mirza/><ref name= "Thornton1858"/>

In 1849, Maharaja [[Ranjit Singh]]'s wife, Rani [[Jind Kaur]] was incarcerated in Fort Chunar after the British usurped the Sikh kingdom. She escaped from the fort in the disguise of a maid servant and went to Kathmandu where she was granted political asylum.<ref>All About Sikhs – [http://www.allaboutsikhs.com/historical-events/annexation-of-punjab-1849 The Annexation of the Punjab]</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Singh|first1=Harbans|title=Encyclopedia of Sikhism|date=2002|publisher=Punjabi University|edition=2002|url=https://www.scribd.com/doc/243347309/The-Encyclopaedia-of-the-Sikhism-Volume-I-Harbans-Singh-English-pdf}}</ref>

Chunar Fort was on the hit list of the [[Naxalite]]s as it was the recruitment training center of the [[State Armed Police Forces#Uttar Pradesh Provincial Armed Constabulary|PAC]], and has a large amount of arms and ammunition stored in its [[Armory (military)|armoury]]. Hence, the state government has directed the police to give particular care to protect the fort and the facilities within it.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.hindustantimes.com/News-Feed/NM4/Chunar-Fort-district-jail-on-Naxal-hit-list/Article1-39804.aspx|archive-url=https://archive.today/20130208083314/http://www.hindustantimes.com/News-Feed/NM4/Chunar-Fort-district-jail-on-Naxal-hit-list/Article1-39804.aspx|url-status=dead|archive-date=8 February 2013|title=Chunar Fort, district jail on Naxal hit list|access-date=9 November 2012|newspaper=[[Hindustan Times]]|date= 1 January 2001}}</ref>

There is also a paranormal history connected with Chunar Fort i.e. the King of Chunar had buried his rich treasure because he knew that the British people would take it from them. Also he connected aatma with it.{{citation needed|date=July 2015}}

The History of Chunar For is beautifully summarised in Sanjeev Sanyal's book Land of Seven Rivers: History of India's Geography in the following words:<ref>Land of Seven Rivers: History of India's Geography, Sanjeev Sanyal</ref>

"It was once said that he who controlled Chunar fort also controlled the destiny of India. A walk through the fort is a walk through Indian history. The walls resonate with tales of the legendary King Vikramaditya, the Mughals, Sher Shah Suri and Governor-General Warren Hastings. There are remains here from each era including an eighteenth-century
sundial. Do not miss the neglected British graves below the walls. Their headstones make for interesting reading. Just south-west of the fort are the quarries that, in the third century BC, supplied the stone used by the Mauyans to carve the lions of Sarnath"

==Walls and gates==
The impregnable citadel is built with huge [[Defensive wall|rampart]]s overlooking the river and built in tiers. They were built of local sandstone quarried in the area.<ref name=Chunar/> Chunar's quarries, notable since the [[Maurya period]], were used in building the fort, and skilled masons were available locally. The external walls of the fort were not strong and hence it was breached when British forces attacked the fort with a battering train. The area bounded by the fort covers a length of {{Convert|750|yard|m}} in the north–south direction, with a maximum width of {{Convert|300|yard|m}} on the northern face, close to the river bank. The peripheral length of the fort is {{Convert|1850|yard|m}}. The ramparts of the fort have towers built at regular intervals with heights varying from {{convert|10|-|20|ft}}.
[[File:Chunar Fort1.jpg|thumbnail|Entrance to the main compound of the fort]]
Of all the gates, only the fort's west gate has inscriptions, which ascribe to its construction during Akabar's period by Muhammad Sharif Khan, who is presumed to be the son of an artist. He is said to have served under Munim Khan who was granted the fort and the surrounding lands since it yielded a lot of revenue, in 1567. Munim Khan died here in 1575. The west gate has the least ornamentation but has [[calligraphy]] engraved slabs. Other gates of the fort have carved panels and brackets.

==Buildings==
The Citadel which is the main structure of the fort, in its northeastern part, was mounted with many [[cannon]]s and also had a gunpowder magazine. The "S"-shaped brackets on the [[oriel window]]s have more similarity with the windows in the [[Agra Fort]] than other pre-Moghul monuments in eastern India. But some designs such as the [[knot motif]] are attributed to the Sur period architecture as seen in [[Chainpur, Bihar|Chainpur]] and [[Shergarh, Uttar Pradesh|Shergarh]], both of the [[Sur Empire|Sur period]], which attests to the fact that local artisans have contributed to the continuation of the regional traditions in architecture.<ref name= "Asher 1992"/> A number of [[bungalows]] (mansions) are located between the trees, which were used as offices and residences of officers during British rule. The Governor's house, a hospital and the state prison are also located here. At the highest point of the rocky bluff within the fort, there is an old Hindu palace, a very large vaulted structure. A well within this area is {{Convert|15|ft|m}} in diameter and sunk deep; its water is commonly not [[potable]]. There is an underground [[dungeon]], which is used as a storeroom now.
[[File:Chunar Garh swarn mandap.jpg|right|thumb|250px|[[Sonwa Mandap]]]]
A pavilion, dating to 1538, was used as the gatehouse.<ref name= "Thornton1858"/><ref name=Chunar/> The [[Sonwa Mandap]] open pavilion<ref name="Eicher2002">{{cite book|title=Good Earth Varanasi City Guide|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=NviJaunGDJMC&pg=PA182|access-date=11 November 2012|year=2002|publisher=Eicher Goodearth Limited|isbn=978-81-87780-04-5|pages=182–}}</ref> has 28 pillars and is built in the Hindu style of architecture. An engraving on its [[mehrab]] is believed to be filled with gold. Bhartri Nath's [[samadhi]] is located at the back of this monument where religious ceremonies are conducted. Sonwa Mandap has four gates and a tunnel at the front yard of the building. It is mentioned that in 1333 AD, princess Sonwa, daughter of Sandeva, a [[Nepal]]i king, came here frequently to take baths in the Ganga River through this tunnel. The access is from the fort. A [[Stepwell|''bawdi'']] measuring {{Convert|17|ft|m}} diameter and of nearly {{Convert|200|ft|m}} depth contains perennial water, its source connection to the Ganga River. It is also mentioned that princess Sonwa used this well for her ablutions.<ref name=Mirza/> There is also a square stone slab with shade provided by a [[peepal tree]], where according to the local legend, God is seated for 9 hours during the day and the rest of 3 hours of the day shifts to Varanasi, and further mentions that during the absence of God, the fort can be captured only between 6 AM and 9 AM.

==In popular culture==
[[Anurag Kashyap]]'s 2012 film, ''[[Gangs of Wasseypur]]'', was shot in Chunar.<ref name="Misra2012">{{cite news|url=http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2012-05-17/news-interviews/31748732_1_manoj-tiwari-anurag-kashyap-bhojpuri|archive-url=https://archive.today/20130103092410/http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2012-05-17/news-interviews/31748732_1_manoj-tiwari-anurag-kashyap-bhojpuri|url-status=dead|archive-date=3 January 2013|title=Manoj sings without any fee for Anurag Kashyap|last=Misra|first=Iti Shree |date=17 May 2012|newspaper=[[The Times of India]]|access-date=2012-10-04}}</ref>

==See also==
* [[List of forts in Uttar Pradesh]]

==References==
{{commons category}}
{{reflist}}

{{Forts in Uttar Pradesh}}
{{Forts in India}}

[[Category:Forts in Uttar Pradesh]]
[[Category:Mirzapur district]]

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Chunar Fort