>RedWolf at 18:43, 18 June 2020

2020-06-18T18:43:08Z

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{{short description|Mountain in Uttarakhand, India}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=July 2015}}
{{Use Indian English|date=July 2015}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Abi Gamin
| photo =
| photo_caption =
| elevation_m = 7355
| elevation_ref = <ref name="neate">{{cite book|author=Jill Neate|title=High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks|publisher=The Mountaineers|location=Seattle|year=1989|ISBN=0-89886-238-8}}</ref>
| prominence_m = 217
| prominence_ref= <ref name="neate"/>
| location = [[Chamoli]], [[Uttarakhand]], [[India]]<br/>[[Ngari Prefecture|Ngari]], [[Tibet]]
| range = [[Himalayas|Garhwal Himalayas]]
| map = India |relief=1
| range_coordinates =
| map_caption = Location in northern India
| map_size = 250
| label_position = right
| coordinates = {{coord|30|55|59|N|79|36|09|E|type:mountain_region:IN-UL_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref =
| topo =
| type =
| age =
| first_ascent = 22 August 1950 by R. Dittert, A. Tissieres and G. Chevalley ([[United Kingdom|Anglo]]-[[Switzerland|Swiss]])
| easiest_route = Southwest ridge via Meade's Col (glacier/snow climb)
}}

'''Abi Gamin''' (also known as '''Ibi Gamin''') is a [[Himalayas|Himalayan]] mountain peak mostly situated in the [[Chamoli]] district of [[Uttarakhand]] state in [[India]], <span style="white-space:nowrap">2 km (1.2 mi)</span> northeast of [[Kamet]]. Its summit is on the border with Tibet and its northern slope is in the [[Ngari Prefecture]] of [[Tibet]].

Abi Gamin is located in the central Himalayas and at the culminating point of the [[Zaskar Range]]. It is situated on the watershed of the upper Alaknanda and Dhauli rivers between the famous Manna and Niti passes on the Indo-Tibetan border.

Abi Gamin is the second highest peak in the immediate region, after Kamet. It is also one of the fifteen seven thousand metre peaks of Uttarakhand, and as such it is a significant peak. However it is not particularly independent, lying as it does close to the higher peak of Kamet, and separated from it by the high saddle known as '''Meade's Col''', {{convert|7138|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}.

Abi Gamin was surveyed (along with the rest of the group) by Richard Strachey in 1848; this was the first time that the great heights of these peaks was recognized.<ref name="neate"/>
In 1855, the Schlagintweit brothers named this range as Western, Central and Eastern Abi Gamin. These correspond to Mukut Parbat, Kamet and Abi Gamin.

== Climbing history ==
The first attempt to climb Kamet was launched by [[Adolf Schlagintweit|Adolf]] and [[Robert Schlagintweit]] from the Tibetan side up the NE ridge: they estimated that in August 1855 they reached an altitude of 22,239 or {{convert|22259|ft|m|abbr=on}} on Kamet, though they were in fact attempting to climb Abi Gamin.<ref>Himalayan Journal Vol.36, p.72</ref><ref name="sircar">[[Joydeep Sircar]],''Himalayan handbook'', Calcutta 1979</ref><ref>[[Frank Smythe]], [https://books.google.com/books?id=HfSJCgAAQBAJ&pg=PT15 Kamet Conquered: The historic first ascent of a Himalayan giant], p. 15</ref><ref>Moritz von Brescius, Friederike Kaiser, Stephanie Kleidt
Böhlau, [https://books.google.com/books?id=OyZsDAAAQBAJ&pg=PA281 Über den Himalaya: Die Expedition der Brüder Schlagintweit nach Indien und Zentralasien 1854 bis 1858], Verlag Köln Weimar, 2015, p. 281</ref> Their attempt resulted in an at the time widely acknowledged [[World altitude record (mountaineering)|altitude record]].

During the 1874-77 survey by the Survey of India under E. C. Ryall, I. S. Pocock set up a plane table at c.22050' on the West flank of Abi Gamin.<ref>Alpine Journal Vol. 33, p.72</ref>

Between 1907 and 1913 a number of expeditions attempting [[Kamet]] reached high altitudes on the flanks of this mountain. [[Tom George Longstaff]] in 1907 recced the Purbi(East) Kamet approaches, and [[Charles Francis Meade|C.F.Meade's]] team followed the same route in 1913 to reach '''Meade's Col''' up the East flank of the massif. The attempts by A.M.Slingsby in 1911 and 1913 and [[Charles Francis Meade|C.F.Meade]] in 1912 were up the West flank from the Pachhmi(West) Kamet glacier. These reached '''Slingsby's Col'''(c.21000') between [[Mukut Parbat]] and Abi Gamin, but failed to go beyond c.23000'.<ref name="sircar"/>

Abi Gamin was climbed for the first time in 1950 by a small [[United Kingdom|Anglo]]-[[Switzerland|Swiss]] Expedition comprising [[Alfred Tissierès]], R. Dittert, and G. Chevalley (all Swiss), and Englishman [[Kenneth Berrill]]. They approached from the north side through Tibet, reached over the [[Mana Pass]]. Their NE ridge route was the same route the Schlagintweit's had tried nearly a century earlier! The summit was reached by the three Swiss members: they ''may'' have been accompanied by Sherpa Dawa Thondup.<ref name="sircar"/><ref>Himalayan Journal 17, p.80</ref><ref>Toni Hiebeler,''Himalaja und Karakorum''</ref>

Indian expeditions under Nandu Jayal climbed the peak in 1953 and 1955 by the SW ridge from Meade's Col, reached up the East flank of the massif from the Purbi Kamet glacier.<ref name="sircar"/> Later ascents have been up this route.

'''First Youngest'''- Indian Expedition On 8 June 1988 Abi Gamin was successfully climbed by Govind Joshi, a 17 years old climber.<ref>The American alpine Journal, climb & Expeditions 1988, page 225</ref> Became the first youngest ever to scale difficult Mt. Abi Gamin who being completely raw in mountaineering field and climbed the peak without using any oxygen aid . This expedition of Ramjas Old Student Adventure Association ( ROSAA ), New Delhi led by C. S. Pandey,<ref>Indian mountaineer / spring '90 # 25 , page 220</ref> went on expedition to Mt. Kamet and Abi Gamin without a trained doctor and tried the bold experiment to eat only vegetarian food throughout the expedition and came back successfully.

==Neighbouring peaks==
Mukut Parbat, [[Kamet]] and Mana. All three peaks are linked by a ridge.

==Trek==
[[Joshimath]] (Chamoli)--Markari-Nitti-Sapukaharak-Nand-Kharak-BC-CI-CII-CIII and CIV then summit.

==Routes==
*NE Ridge (by Mana pass and Mang Gang glacier).
*Purbi Kamet glacier, Meade's col, South face or SW ridge.
*North West Ridge.

==See also==
[[List of Himalayan peaks of Uttarakhand]]

==References==
{{reflist}}
* [[Harish Kapadia]], ''Across Peaks and Passes in Garhwal Himalaya'', Indus Publishing, 1999, {{ISBN|81-7387-097-7}}

==External links==
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20070928223611/http://www.sfar-evev06.ch/en/expeditions/garhwal50.html]

{{Authority control}}
[[Category:Tourist attractions in Uttarakhand]]
[[Category:Mountains of Uttarakhand]]
[[Category:Seven-thousanders of the Himalayas]]
[[Category:Geography of Chamoli district]]

Abi Gamin - Revision history

>RedWolf at 18:43, 18 June 2020