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[[File:Riproduzione di un angarkha di epoca moghul.jpg|thumb|345x345px|A Reproduction of Mughali Angarkha]]
'''Angarkha''' or '''Angi''', refers to the most common upper body garment with a usual asymmetrical opening in the chest area reaching down to

the knees, knotted or secured traditionally by strings worn by men in the [[Indian subcontinent]], especially before the introduction of the '[[Kurta]]'. Its various forms exist mostly throughout Northern [[South Asia]]. Angarkha was predominant in various parts of the [[Indian subcontinent]], but while the basic cut remained the same, the style and length varied from region to region.<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=qYK1AAAAIAAJ&q=angarkha&dq=angarkha&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CC0Q6AEwAWoVChMI9PzF2_jdxgIV6QfbCh0zwArh Kumar, Ritu (2006) Costumes and textiles of royal India]</ref> Angarakhas are of the waist-length and knee-length reaching below the knees, both of which can be flared so to appear as either a waist or knee-length frock.

In the 21st century, modern and simpler designs are usually a casual or semi-casual upper garment for both the genders. The [[Achkan]] and [[Sherwani]] are the descendants of Angarkha.

==Etymology==
[[File:Rrrraas!.jpg|thumb|Kediyu, A knee-length flared Angarkha]]
[[File:India (Gujarat), man's costume, 1970s-1980s - Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum - DSC05310.JPG|thumb|Kamari, A waist-length flared Angarkha]]
''Angarkha'' comes from the [[Sanskrit]] {{IAST|aṅgarakṣaka}}, meaning 'body-protector'.<ref>Zaira Mis, Marcel Mis (2001) Asian Costumes and Textiles: From the Bosphorus to Fujiama [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=V-wcAQAAIAAJ&q=angarkha++sanskrit&dq=angarkha++sanskrit&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCIQ6AEwAWoVChMIiIfj-e3dxgIVqhbbCh1dWgDU]</ref>

==Traditional types==

* Jama (Gujarat), which has an asymmetric opening with the skirt flaring out to around the hips. However, some styles fall to below the knees.<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=hdOsQadR9_cC&pg=PA4&dq=kurta+mens+punjab&hl=en&sa=X&ei=i_1xVbCXLIv3UMmHg8AP&ved=0CGIQ6AEwCTgK#v=onepage&q=angharka&f=false Tierney, Tom (2013) Fashions from India]</ref><ref>[http://www.tribuneindia.com/2000/20000902/windows/main7.htm Sarosh Medhora (02.09.2000) The Tribune. Focus on men’s formals]</ref>
* Kediyu (Gujarat), it is a long sleeved upper garment, pleated at the chest and reaching to the waist. Some designs, however, flare out to the knees. The prints on the kediyu include [[bandhani]] designs which are local to [[Gujarat]] and [[Rajasthan]].<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=udyrbG7rlKkC&pg=RA6-PT34&dq=kediyu&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCoQ6AEwAmoVChMI-pzVnsGKxgIVzFUUCh1_AQDo#v=onepage&q=kediyu&f=false Swaminarayan (2006) Vachanamrut]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=yoiVBQAAQBAJ&pg=PT43&dq=kediyu&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CDAQ6AEwA2oVChMI-pzVnsGKxgIVzFUUCh1_AQDo#v=onepage&q=kediyu&f=false Simran Ahuja (2014) Nine Nights: Navratri]</ref> Some designs, however, flare out to the knees. The prints on the kediyu include [[bandhani]] designs which are local to [[Gujarat]] and [[Rajasthan]].<ref>Murphy, Veronica and Crill, Rosemary (1991) Tie-dyed Textiles of India: Tradition and Trad [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=oorYAAAAMAAJ&q=gujarati+bandhani&dq=gujarati+bandhani&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCUQ6AEwAWoVChMI8YLalPiKxgIVh3EUCh3VAwBL]</ref>
* Bandia (Rajasthan), worn above the waist and fastened with tapes either over the chest or on the shoulder, with long arms and narrow sleeves. The prints on the Rajasthani garments include sanganer prints which are of local origin.<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=aa8YAAAAYAAJ&q=sanganer+print+rajasthan&dq=sanganer+print+rajasthan&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CDwQ6AEwBWoVChMI35-b5PaKxgIVC7UUCh0uyACx Koṭhārī, Gulāba (1995) Colourful textiles of Rajasthan]</ref><ref>Bhandari, Vandana (2005) Costume, textiles and jewellery of India: traditions in Rajasthan [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=nckSAQAAIAAJ&q=placket+kurta&dq=placket+kurta&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CC0Q6AEwAWoVChMIneHSiM2HxgIVh7gUCh1m5gCE]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=nckSAQAAIAAJ&q=placket+kurta&dq=placket+kurta&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CC0Q6AEwAWoVChMIneHSiM2HxgIVh7gUCh1m5gCE Ghurye, Govind Sadashiv (1966) Indian Costume]</ref><ref>Rajasthan [district Gazetteers].: Baran (1997) [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=XS9qAAAAIAAJ&dq=bandi+dress+rajasthan&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=bandi+]</ref>
* Mirjai (Bihar), is a modified form of the flowing robe (known as the jama) fastened on the right. The Mirjai is an under jacket with long loose sleeves and open cuffs.<ref>Winer, Lise (2009) Dictionary of the English/Creole of Trinidad & Tobago: On Historical Principles [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=_n82hsbDJBMC&pg=PA504&dq=punjabi+kurta+bihar&hl=en&sa=X&ei=WjV3VazaGYPsUtWagOgE&ved=0CFEQ6AEwBQ#v=onepage&q=mirjai&f=false]</ref> fastened on the right.<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=iftaR6DVxIAC&pg=PA51&dq=bihar+dress&hl=en&sa=X&ei=izl3VdSwFceAUazQg5AP&ved=0CDMQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=bihar%20dress&f=false O`malley, L.S.S. (1924) Bihar And Orissa Gazetteers Shahabad]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=IvUZAAAAIAAJ&q=mirjai+bihari+kurta&dq=mirjai+bihari+kurta&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CEcQ6AEwCGoVChMIq-2oztqHxgIVzL4UCh2zaQCE The Eastern Anthropologist, Volumes 27-28 (1974)]</ref>
* Kamari (Gujarat and Rajathan)
* Anga or Peshwaj, the female version of which flowed to the ankles and male version to the knees; it is fastened with a flap to the side and is worn with a front opening kurta. A commonality in [[Punjab]], [[Haryana]] and [[Himachal Pradesh|Himachal]].<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=0FigAAAAMAAJ&dq=punjab+angarkha&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=+angarkha Kumar Suresh Singh, V. Bhalla, Swaran Singh (1997) Chandigarh]</ref> it is a loose tunic<ref>Punjab District Gazetteers: Ibbetson series, 1883-1884]. [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=D-Q2AQAAMAAJ&q=punjabi+angrakha&dq=punjabi+angrakha&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CDEQ6AEwAWoVChMIzoyhgPzixgIVJoHbCh0FCg5X]</ref> that falls to below the knees,<ref>Punjab gazetteers, 1883, bound in 10 vols., without title-leaves (1883) [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=YacIAAAAQAAJ&q=punjabi+angarkha&dq=punjabi+angarkha&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CDQQ6AEwAWoVChMIzYm42v3ixgIVg2fbCh3AIQhs]</ref> is fastened with a flap to the side and is worn with a front opening kurta.<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Gug2AQAAMAAJ&q=punjab+angarkha+front+opening&dq=punjab+angarkha+front+opening&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CC8Q6AEwAmoVChMI7LLkrNfmxgIV6GvbCh0onQon Punjab District Gazetteers Karnal 1919]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Vf4InPH0STQC&q=peshwaj+known+as+anga&dq=peshwaj+known+as+anga&hl=en&sa=X&ei=I_xzVc64AoblUoiPgLAB&ved=0CCIQ6AEwAA Rajaram Narayan Saletore (1974) Sex Life Under Indian Rulers]</ref><ref>Panjab University Research Bulletin: Arts, Volume 13, Issue 1 - Volume 14, Issue 1 (1982) [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=nvE7AQAAIAAJ&q=peshwaj+known+as+anga&dq=peshwaj+known+as+anga&hl=en&sa=X&ei=I_xzVc64AoblUoiPgLAB&ved=0CCwQ6AEwAg]</ref> and peshwaj)<ref>B. N. Goswamy, Kalyan Krishna, Tarla P. Dundh (1993) Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles, Volume 5 [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=1IHWAAAAMAAJ&q=west+india+peshwaj+is+known+as+anga&dq=west+india+peshwaj+is+known+as+anga&hl=en&sa=X&ei=7AB0VfemDMKnU_u0gMgG&ved=0CCYQ6AEwAQ]</ref>
* Chamba (Himachal), is sewn tight at the torso, but below the waist it has an open fall like the modern skirt. It is tied at the waist with a sash.<ref>Kamal Prashad Sharma, Surinder Mohan Sethi (1997) Costumes and Ornaments of Chamba [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=TQwKtSFn9FMC&pg=PA77&dq=angarkha&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CDwQ6AEwBGoVChMI9PzF2_jdxgIV6QfbCh0zwArh#v=onepage&q=angarkha&f=false]</ref>
* Kalidar (Uttarakhand)<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=-kAbAAAAIAAJ&q=kalidar+mens+kurta&dq=kalidar+mens+kurta&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CFQQ6AEwBmoVChMIzND6j76bxwIVZILbCh2x-QSD Uttar Pradesh District Gazetteers: Uttarkashi 1979]</ref>
* Angerkho (Sindh) [[File:A watercolor portrait of Ranjit Singh.jpg|thumb|Anga, A knee-length unflared Angarkha]]

==Related garments==
===Jhabbho===
[[File:Wedding dress (abho), Memon or Jat, Banni, Kutch, Gujarat, India, late 19th to early 20th century, silk, glass mirrors - DSC00971.JPG|thumb|Abho]]
Another upper garment worn in [[Gujarat]] is the ''jhabbho'' which is a long robe.<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=A6fRAAAAMAAJ&dq=gujarati+jhabbho&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=+jhabbho Nair, Usha (1979) Gujarati Phonetic Reader]</ref> The jhabho is also called the abho which is also worn by women of [[Rajasthan]]. The garment is loose, with short, wide sleeves, open at the neck, loose-fitting on the upper part and very flared at the skirt. The abho is often decorated in embroidery and mirror work.<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=jwHv0mmIagQC&pg=PA1&dq=abho+rajasthan&hl=en&sa=X&ei=aHeWVfPKE4r8UoPOuOAC&ved=0CFUQ6AEwBw#v=onepage&q=abho%20rajasthan&f=false Maitra, K.K (2007) Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Clothing and Textiles]</ref>

===Saluka===
A short sleeve cotton shirt, without a collar,<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=gj0u3Cmpp2AC&pg=PA193&lpg=PA193&dq=saluka+shirt&source=bl&ots=tTy_KoeD6-&sig=E_ClOdWX0WNzglV89g5imjRV5Bc&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCkQ6AEwAWoVChMIx8e017XxxgIVyW0UCh0XhwSO#v=onepage&q=saluka%20shirt&f=false Sameera Maiti (2004) The Tharu: Their Arts and Crafts]</ref> to the waist (called saluka<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=C3MbAAAAIAAJ&q=saluka+uttar+pradesh&dq=saluka+uttar+pradesh&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CC4Q6AEwAWoVChMIjdr_i-eExgIVyGkUCh1SiAA0 Uttar Pradesh District Gazetteers: Deoria (1998)]</ref> or ganji)<ref>Singh, K. S. Anthropological Survey of India (2005) Uttar Pradesh, Volume 1 [https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=-kduAAAAMAAJ&dq=ganji+dress+uttar+pradesh&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=ganji+]</ref> is traditionally worn in [[Uttar Pradesh]].<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=xPUcAQAAMAAJ&q=uttar+pradesh+style+kurta&dq=uttar+pradesh+style+kurta&hl=en&sa=X&ei=z0B3VYadOYG4UMb9g6AN&ved=0CEUQ6AEwBA Census of India, 1961: Uttar Pradesh]</ref> The saluka is also traditionally worn in [[Madhya Pradesh]].<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Qo1hAAAAIAAJ&q=saluka+madhya+pradesh&dq=saluka+madhya+pradesh&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCAQ6AEwAGoVChMI38iI-qmIxgIVgboUCh0XUACB Madhya Pradesh: district gazetteers, Volume 31 (1994)]</ref>

===Cholo===
The female [[Sindh]]i cholo<ref>I am a Sindhi: The Glorious Sindhi Heritage and Culture and Folklore of Sindh J P Vaswami</ref><ref>Sindh and The Races That Inhabit the Valley of the Indus Richard F Burton</ref> is loose fitting,<ref>Askari, Nasreen and Crill, Rosemary Colours of the Indus: Costume and Textiles of Pakistan (1997) [https://books.google.co.uk/books?ei=bAaNVYzXOMKBUfLJgeAE&id=jWRQAAAAMAAJ&dq=balochistan+kameez+front+opening&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=cholo]</ref> and is made in a variety of ways, including the traditional method of the cholo opening at the front to the waist,<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?ei=N1prVZrxC6XjsASr2YDoDw&id=2-0IAQAAIAAJ&dq=sindhi+cholo&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=+cholo Perspective, Volume 3, Issue 2 (1970)]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?ei=0aybVYyYLcuBUYvrg5gL&id=rXscAQAAMAAJ&dq=sindhi+cholo&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=+cholo Weekly of Pakistan, Volume 20, Issues 27-39 (1968)]</ref> with very wide sleeves.<ref>Papers by Command, Volume 68. Great Britain. Parliament. House of Commons H.M. Stationery Office, 1979 - Legislation [https://books.google.co.uk/books?ei=hkhsVaisHcPbU_OIgNAM&id=lDQ6AQAAIAAJ&dq=shalwar+sindh&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=extra+wide]</ref> The traditional cholo can reach down to the ankles.<ref>[https://books.google.co.uk/books?ei=J66bVcufB8bzUJC7s6AL&id=pboYAAAAYAAJ&dq=sindhi+cholo&focus=searchwithinvolume&q=ankles Chaukhandi tombs in Pakistan (1996])</ref>

==Images==
<gallery widths="250" heights="150">
File:SamudraguptaCoin.jpg|[[Samudragupta]] depicted with angarkha, [[Gupta Empire]].
File:Great Emperor Kanishka - Greatest of Kushan Monarchs - Circa 1st Century CE - Mathura - Government Museum - Mathura 2013-02-23 5837.JPG|Sculpture depicted with angarkha, sash and outer coat, 1st century CE.
File:Great Emperor Kanishka - Greatest of Kushan Monarchs - Circa 1st Century CE - Mathura - Government Museum - Mathura 2013-02-23 5836.JPG|Sculpture depicted with angarkha, sash and outer coat, 1st century CE.
File:Gaddi Couple 1940.jpg|A man dressed in angarkha with dora or sash wrapped around the waist.
</gallery>

{{Clothing in South Asia}}

== See also ==
*[[Achkan]]
*[[Bagalbandi]]
*[[Dashiki]]
*[[Tunic]]
*[[Jama costume]]
*[[Kurta]]

==References==
{{Reflist|30em}}
{{Clothing in South Asia}}
[[Category:Indian clothing]]
[[Category:Rajasthani clothing]]
[[Category:Bangladeshi clothing]]
[[Category:Nepalese clothing]]
[[Category:Pakistani clothing]]
[[Category:Punjabi clothing]]
{{Punjabi clothing}}

Angarkha - Revision history

CleanupBot at 16:32, 1 January 2022