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{{short description|Type of traditional clothing}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=October 2015}}
{{Use Indian English|date=October 2015}}
'''Attire of Mangalorean Catholics''' refers to the traditional clothing of the [[Mangalorean Catholics]] from the [[Mangalore Diocese]] (erstwhile [[South Canara]] district) on the southwestern coast of [[India]].

==Costumes==
[[File:Mangalorean Catholic sado.JPG|200px|thumb|right|A typical Mangalorean Catholic wedding [[sari]] (''sado'')]]
Mangalorean Catholic men used to wear long loose frilled white or black coats known as ''kutav'' with buttons (a loose coat that draws from [[Mughal Empire|Moghul]]-era [[sherwani]]s), over a loose shirt ''zibbo'' (similar to short-[[kurta]]s), while a [[sarong]] called ''pudvem'' ([[dhoti]]), a piece of unstitched cloth, usually around 7 yards long, was wrapped around the waist, and in between the legs to be knotted at the waist. The turbans were usually flattened like the [[Coorg]]i [[turban]]s (''Mundaas'' or ''Urmal'').<ref name="sf31"/> The ''Mundaas'' or ''Urmal'' or is a long white piece of cloth with a golden hem (''todop'') and is tied around the head like a turban in a peculiar manner by which they could easily be recognized as Catholics.<ref name="sf31"/><ref>{{harvnb|D'Souza|2004|p=[https://books.google.com/books?id=aAli0XqprNMC&lpg=PA9&dq=Pudvem&lr=&pg=PA9#v=onepage&q=&f=false 9]}}</ref> In modern times, this mode has changed. Only a few old people can be seen wearing this traditional dress on church going occasions.<ref name="sc119">{{harvnb|South Kanara District Gazetteer|1973|p=119|Ref=sc}}</ref>

Before marriage, women used to wear a ''kirgi'' ([[half saree]]) and ''baju'' ([[blouse]]). The ''kirgi'' is a piece of cloth, not longer than four feet and about three feet broad. It was wrapped around the body from the waist down. A jacket called ''baju'' with long sleeves was used to cover the upper part of the body. This dress was a sign of her virginity and she wore for the last time during the ''Ros'' ceremony.<ref name="sf31">{{harvnb|Silva|Fuchs|1965|p=31}}</ref><ref name="dsa77">{{harvnb|D'Sa|1972|p=77}}</ref> The ''kirgi'' was wrapped around the waist, but the end of the sari is not thrown over the shoulder.<ref name="dsa77"/> To wear the full [[sari]] with its end thrown over the shoulder, known as ''worl'', was the exclusive right of a married woman.<ref name="sf40">{{harvnb|Silva|Fuchs|1965|p=40}}</ref> Married women used to wear sarees the general way.<ref name="sc120">{{harvnb|South Kanara District Gazetteer|1973|p=120|Ref=sc}}</ref> The [[salwar kameez]] and [[longyis]] is another form of popular dress for contemporary females and males.

The Mangalorean Catholic bride's wedding [[sari]] ([[drapery|drape]]) is known as ''sado''.<ref name="sf32">{{harvnb|Silva|Fuchs|1965|p=32}}</ref> It is usually a red coloured [[Banarasi|Benaresi sari]] made of finely woven [[silk]] decorated with elaborate gold embroidery called ''[[zàri]]'' ([[brocade]]).<ref name="sf19">{{harvnb|Silva|Fuchs|1965|p=19}}</ref> In olden days, the bride wore on her head a red cloth, three feet long and as many broad. After the wedding was over, the ''Sado'' was well preserved and worn only on feast-days or for weddings and any other grand functions. Sometimes a particularly precious sado was handed down from mother to daughter and considered a valuable heirloom. The cost of a sado was reckoned in ''varahas''. Saris are known for their variety by special names, such as ''Katari'', ''Shilari'', ''Gulabi'', etc.<ref name="sf19"/> Both the ''sado'' and ''Dharma sado'' were costly saris, while the ''sado'' was the most expensive, the ''Dharma Sado'' was the second most expensive.<ref name="dsa77"/> Some Mangalorean Catholic brides also wear a white sari during the Nuptial Blessing in Church, but however this style of dress has waned in the recent years. {{citation needed|date=December 2011}} The bridegroom's dress in the early times consisted of a short [[sarong]] of hand-woven cloth (''[[dhoti]]''), a shawl to cover his shoulders and a red [[handkerchief]] on the head (''leis''). The groom's dress was gradually improved. Later, his dress consisted of a white [[sarong]] with a red and gold [[hem]] (''todop''), a shirt with gold buttons and a coat (''kutav''), a shawl on the shoulders and a towel (''Urmal'') on the head.<ref name="sf31"/><ref name="dsa77"/> The bridegroom wore a ''chakrasar'' (neck chain) around his neck. He wore a pair of sandals or at least a pair of socks.<ref name="dsa78">{{harvnb|D'Sa|1972|p=78}}</ref> In present times, many westernised Mangalorean Catholic couples and particularly the diaspora outside South Canara, have taken to a Victorian style [[White wedding]]s in which the bridegroom usually wears a two-piece [[black tie]] suit, while the bride wears a white [[wedding gown]] to Church ceremony, <ref name="DAJAnilds">{{cite web|url=http://www.daijiworld.com/chan/exclusive_arch.asp?ex_id=1019 |title=Weddings then, now and in Future... |last=D'Souza |first=Anil |date=2009-01-27 |publisher=[[Daiji World|Daijiworld Media Pvt Ltd Mangalore]] |access-date=2009-06-20 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090401002651/http://daijiworld.com/chan/exclusive_arch.asp?ex_id=1019 |archive-date=1 April 2009 }}</ref> Nevertheless, since the 1960s, some families have adopted and preserved a "fusion wedding" subculture and will follow the rules and rituals in varying degrees. After [[Toast raising]], [[Wedding cake]]-cutting, the [[First couple dance]]& other Western rituals are done, the newly-weds will change over into [[Folk_costume#Asia|Eastern wear]] and re-enter in a second [[Wedding march]] at the [[Wedding reception]] venue;{{citation needed|date=June 2020}} Eastern wear today comprises ''pudvem'' (a light coloured silk [[dhoti]]) that is usually off-white or whitish yellow, and a dark coloured short-[[sherwani]] for the groom, while the bride wears a ''sado'' (red [[sari]]) with a full-length bodice or blouse ([[choli]]), this is followed by a number of native Konkani (''paik'') rituals, the most prominent among which is the tying of ''pirduk'', a hybridised piece of jewellery drawing from [[thaali]] (Indian bridal necklace) and a [[Christian pendant]] blest by a priest during the [[Church wedding ceremony]].{{citation needed|date=June 2020}}

==Ornaments==
The earliest bridal ornament was the ''pirduk''{{ref label|a|a|none}} around the neck.<ref name="sf19"/> It was a necklace of black glass beads strung on a thread made of the fibres of dried [[pineapple]] (''ananas'') leaves. This necklace was to be worn as long as the husband was alive; a widow had to take it off. It was highly prized by the women as the symbol of their married state. The pirduk could consist of a single row of beads, but in old times it often consisted of three rows. The beads were black probably because black never fades or changes. As the years passed more lustre was added to the beads.<ref name="sf20">{{harvnb|Silva|Fuchs|1965|p=20}}</ref>

The ordinary crude pattern of the ''pirduk'' was improved in the course of time. Later longish beads of gold were inserted between the black glass beads and a pendant was added. The earliest pendant was a round disk of silver. It was called ''thali''.{{ref label|b|b|none}} Later it was changed into a golden pendant. Finally the pendant was replaced by a gold medal bearing the picture of [[Mother Mary|Our Lady]]. This ornament is still in use in some places. Elsewhere in South Canara the pirduk has now the form of a half-moon surmounted by a cross and studded with pearls or precious stones. It is worn on the chest on a string of pineapple fibres on which gold and black glass beads are strung alternately. Another form of the pendant consists of a cross studded with precious stones. To the top of the cross is attached the figure of a dove, symbol of the [[Holy Ghost]]. While the former pendant is called ''minin'', the latter shape is called ''sorpoli''. It is worn on a gold chain without glass beads.<ref name="sf20"/> At present, the necklace is made of black beads, strung on a gold wire as either as a single chain or double chain with a connecting pendant.{{citation needed|date=December 2011}}

Besides this main ornament a bride used to wear the following
other ornaments:
# On the neck: the kanti, a necklace of red coral beads and gold beads, between eight or ten coral beads a larger gold bead being inserted, hung down to the breast; the chakrasar consisting of a series of small round gold plates woven one into the other and forming a long chain; the ''fugodor'', a necklace of large green stones mounted in gold.
#On the ear: The most ancient ear ornament was called ''kap''. It consisted of a round disk inserted into the lobe of the ear. It is still the typical ear ornament for married women in Canara. The weight of the kap extended the hole of the earlobes so much that the earlobes of old women hang down very low.<ref name="sf20"/> In the course of time the ''kap'' fell into disuse among the younger generation and was replaced by a more elaborate ornament, the ''pespes'', which is similar to the ''kap''. In the present time the ear ornament most commonly worn is the so-called ''kudar'' (pl. ''kudkan''), a round gold disk surrounded by precious stones. Another ear-ornament was the ''karap'', inserted in the middle ear. A thin gold chain was attached to it which was fastened in the hair. On top of the ear the bride wore the ''mugud'', a gold disk surrounded by pearls. The ''mugud'' too was attached to the hair by a golden chain.<ref name="sf21">{{harvnb|Silva|Fuchs|1965|p=21}}</ref>
#Head ornaments: First was a gold pin struck through the bun of hair at the back of the head. For a bride it was a silver pin with a gold head, often ornamented. It was called ''kanto''. The bride wore a pair of combs (''dantoni''). Two ordinary combs were purchased and the upper part of each one was plated with gold. They are worn in the hair on both sides of the head over the ears. Two more combs were worn by the bride, with a figure of a fish in gold inserted in each comb. These combs were therefore called ''masli'' (fish). In the centre of the forehead where the hair is parted, a gold chain was placed with a pendant. This chain was called ''bang''. It was also used by the Hindu bride.<ref name="sf21"/>
#Arm ornaments: Every bride formerly wore three pairs of gold bangles; in addition she wore bangles of red glass.{{ref label|c|c|none}} A bride must also wear one or several gold rings on her fingers.<ref name="sf21"/>

These were the traditional ornaments for a bride on her wedding day. The less sophisticated country brides still wear them though in the towns they have been replaced by modern jewellery. The modern tendency is to wear a lesser number of ornaments, but the few ornaments worn are more valuable through the addition of precious stones and through a more refined workmanship.<ref name="sf21"/> A widow had to wear a black sari all her life, and was not allowed to wear ornaments.<ref name="sf52">{{harvnb|Silva|Fuchs|1965|p=52}}</ref>

==Notes==
'''a''' {{note label|a|a|none}} The Hindus call it ''[[mangalsutra]]'' or ''[[mangala sutra]]'' (the auspicious necklace). It is the symbol of the married state.<ref name="sf19"/><br/>
'''b''' {{note label|b|b|none}} This was probably imported from [[Kerala]] where the ''thali'' is the symbol of the married state. The bridegroom has to tie it around the neck of the bride during the wedding.<ref name="sf20"/><br/>
'''c''' {{note label|c|c|none}} Some fifty years ago the old women still wore black glass bangles and even copper bangles. The Vakkal women wear bangles of black glass on both arms even at the present time.<ref name="sf21"/>

==Citations==
{{reflist|2}}

==References==
*{{cite book |last1=D'Souza |first1=Edwin J F |title=V.J.P. Saldanha |date=2004 |publisher=Sahitya Akademi |isbn=978-81-260-2028-7 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=aAli0XqprNMC}}
*{{Citation
|last1 = Silva
|first1 = Severine
|last2 = Fuchs
|first2 = Stephan
|publisher = Asian Folklore Studies, [[Nanzan University]] ([[Japan]])
|url = https://www.nanzan-u.ac.jp/SHUBUNKEN/publications/afs/pdf/a173.pdf
|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20120222034247/https://www.nanzan-u.ac.jp/SHUBUNKEN/publications/afs/pdf/a173.pdf
|url-status = dead
|archive-date = 22 February 2012
|format = [[Portable Document Format|PDF]], 2.48 [[Megabyte|MB]]
|title = The Marriage Customs of the Christians in South Canara, India
|journal = Asian Ethnology
|year = 1965
|series = 2
|pages = 1–52
|access-date = 2008-07-08
|volume = 24
}}
*{{Citation
|last = D'Sa
|first = Victor
|publisher = Asian Folklore Studies, [[Nanzan University]] ([[Japan]])
|url = https://www.nanzan-u.ac.jp/SHUBUNKEN/publications/afs/pdf/a253.pdf
|format = [[Portable Document Format|PDF]], 0.2803 [[Megabyte|MB]]
|title = The Marriage Customs of the Christians in South Canara (India)
|journal = Asian Ethnology
|year = 1972
|series = 1
|pages = 71–87
|access-date = 2009-06-05
|volume = 31
}}{{Dead link|date=December 2018 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}
*{{cite book
|year=1973
|title=South Kanara District Gazetteer
|series=Karnataka State Gazetteer
|volume=12
|chapter-url=http://gazetteer.kar.nic.in/data/gazetteer/postind/11_1973_3.pdf
|chapter-format=[[Portable Document Format|PDF]], 2.57 [[Megabyte|MB]]
|pages=86–125
|chapter=People
|publisher=Gazetteer Department ([[Government of Karnataka]])
|access-date=2008-10-26
|ref=sc}}

[[Category:Culture of Mangalore]]
[[Category:Mangalorean Catholics| ]]

Attire of Mangalorean Catholics - Revision history

UpdateBot at 17:30, 28 June 2022