>Offa29 at 15:55, 27 April 2021

2021-04-27T15:55:19Z

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{{Use Indian English|date=April 2021}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=April 2021}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Changabang
| photo =Kalanka and Changbang peaks from Bagini glacier DSCN0066.jpg
| photo_caption =Kalanka and Changbang peaks from Bagini glacier
| elevation_m = 6864
| elevation_ref =
| prominence = circa 300 m (1000 ft)
| prominence_ref=<ref name="prom">This is an approximate figure, based on the 1:150,000 scale topographic map ''Garhwal-Himalaya-Ost'', Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.</ref>
| location = [[Garhwal Division]], [[Uttarakhand]], [[India]]
| range = [[Garhwal Division|Garhwal]] [[Himalayas]]
| map = India |relief =1
| range_coordinates =
| map_caption = Location in northern India
| map_size = 250
| label_position = right
| coordinates = {{coord|30|30|0|N|79|55|32|E|type:mountain_region:IN-UL_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref =
| first_ascent = 4 June 1974 by Tashi Chewang, Balwant Sandhu, [[Chris Bonington]], [[Martin Boysen]], [[Dougal Haston]], [[Doug Scott]]<ref name="him_alpine_style">Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, ''Himalaya Alpine-Style'', Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, {{ISBN|0-340-64931-3}}</ref>
| easiest_route = Southeast Face/East Ridge (snow/ice climb)
}}

'''Changabang''' is a mountain in the [[Garhwal Division|Garhwal]] [[Himalaya]] of [[Uttarakhand]], [[India]]. It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the [[Nanda Devi]] Sanctuary. It is a particularly steep and rocky peak, and all routes on it are serious undertakings. It has been the site of many significant climbs. It does not have a high [[topographic prominence]], being slightly lower than its near neighbour Kalanka to the east, and lower than many other peaks in the immediate vicinity, but its steep rocky profile has made it a more attractive destination than its elevation would indicate.

==First ascent==
Changabang was first climbed on 4 June 1974 by an expedition led by Lt. Col Balwant Sandhu and [[Chris Bonington]], via the Southeast Face, leading to the East Ridge. This is the easiest route on the mountain, and one of the few that is primarily a snow/ice climb, as opposed to a [[rock climbing|rock climb]] with some snow, ice, or mixed terrain.<ref name="him_alpine_style"/>

==Notable ascents==
Other notable ascents include some of the hardest climbs ever done in the Himalaya.

* 1976 ''Southwest Ridge'', Naoki Toda, Akira Kobayashi, Masahide Aida, Harumi Ohno, Yukio Asano and Teruyoshi Karino (Japanese Alpine Club) all reached the summit after 33 days of effort.<ref>{{cite journal
| last = Toda | first = Naoki | title = Changabang, Southwest Ridge | journal = [[American Alpine Journal]]
| volume = 21 | issue = 51 | pages = 248 | publisher = American Alpine Club
| location = New York, New York, US | year = 1977
}}</ref>

* 1976 ''West Wall'', [[Peter Boardman]] and [[Joe Tasker]], summit reached 15 October 1976. The route took over 25 days to ascend, and their use of [[big wall climbing]] techniques to overcome the serious, sustained difficulties was revolutionary. Boardman's account of the ascent, ''The Shining Mountain'', won the 1979 [[John Llewellyn Rhys Prize]] for literature.<ref>{{cite journal
| last = Tasker | first = Joe | title = Changabang, West Wall | journal = American Alpine Journal
| volume = 21 | issue = 51 | pages = 248–249 | publisher = American Alpine Club
| location = New York, New York, US | year = 1977
}}</ref>

* 1978 ''Direct South Face'', [[Wojciech Kurtyka]] (Pol.), Krzysztof Żurek (Pol.), [[Alex MacIntyre]] (UK) and John Porter (US-UK), summit reached 27 September 1978.<ref name = Porter_Bandaka>{{cite journal 
| last = Porter | first = John | title = Bandaka and Changabang | journal = American Alpine Journal
| volume = 22 | issue = 53 | pages = 29–35 | publisher = American Alpine Club
| location = New York, New York, US | year = 1979 | url = http://aac-publications.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/aaj/1979/PDF/AAJ_1979_22_1_029.pdf | issn = 0065-6925
}}. (available also internet version, see External links)</ref>

* 1981 ''South Ridge'', [[Ugo Manera]] (Ita.), [[Lino Castiglia]] (Ita.) first summit via the South Ridge.<ref>{{cite journal
| title = Changabang | journal = Alpinist
| volume = 1 | issue = 51 | pages = 30
| location = US | year = 1982
}}</ref>

* 1997 ''North Face'', [[Andy Cave]] and Brendan Murphy (summit) with [[Mick Fowler]] and Steve Sustad (to summit ridge) made the first ascent of the North Face of Changabang, a 1,600 m (5,250 ft) route involving steep, sustained ice, mixed, and rock climbing. (Murphy was hit by an avalanche and swept off the face to his death on the descent.)<ref>{{cite journal
| last = Fowler | first = Mick | title = A Touch Too Much? | journal = American Alpine Journal
| volume = 40 | issue = 72 | pages = 53–68 | publisher = American Alpine Club
| location = Golden, Colorado, US | year = 1998 | isbn = 0-930410-78-5
}}</ref>

* 1998 ''The Lightning Route'', [[Carlos Buhler]] (US) and a team of Russians (Andrei Volkov, Andrei Mariev, [[:ru:Душарин Иван Трофимович|Ivan Dusharin]] and Pavel Chabaline) established a demanding new route on the north face: (VII 5.9 A4 WI4, 1580m)<ref>{{cite journal
| last = Buhler | first = Carlos | title = Russian Style on Changabang | journal = American Alpine Journal
| volume = 41 | issue = 73 | pages = 106–113 | publisher = American Alpine Club
| location = Golden, Colorado, US | year = 1999 | isbn = 0-930410-84-X
}}</ref><ref name="Changabang-98">[http://www.shura007.com/k2/1998changa/ Changabang-98]</ref>

On 12 October 2006, two [[Mexican people|Mexican]] climbers, Andrés Delgado and Alfonso de la Parra, summited Changabang by a new route. While descending, they encountered a storm and were officially reported missing by the Indian Mountaineering Federation on 15 October, when they last made a contact via [[satellite phone]]. An initial rescue effort was made despite harsh weather conditions, but on 8 November 2006 the search was cancelled due to continued harsh weather.<ref name="mexican">[http://www.eluniversalgrafico.com.mx/59902.html El Universal Grafico] {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070929223510/http://www.eluniversalgrafico.com.mx/59902.html |date=29 September 2007 }}</ref><ref name="Everest News">[https://archive.is/20120629111200/http://www.everestnews.com/2006expeditions/11082006.htm Everest News 11-08-2006]</ref>

==References==
{{Reflist}}

== External links ==
* [http://aac-publications.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/aaj/1979/PDF/AAJ_1979_22_1_029.pdf John Porter: ''Bandaka and Changabang''. [[American Alpine Journal|''AAJ'']] 1979, pp. 29–35] (pdf file, see especially p. 32, and Plate 16, ''K. Żurek in headwall''). Html version available: [http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197902900/Bandaka-and-Changabang americanalpineclub.org]. Both retrieved 20 October 2017.
* [http://www.nyka.home.pl/gaze_gor/pl/200802.htm Photograph of the Polish-English team in Warsaw after return from the Changabang in October 1978, nyka.home.pl]. (in Polish). From the left Wojciech Kurtyka, Krzysztof Żurek, John Porter and Alex MacIntyre. Photo: [[Józef Nyka]]. Retrieved 20 October 2017.

[[Category:Mountains of Uttarakhand]]
[[Category:Six-thousanders of the Himalayas]]

Changabang - Revision history

>Offa29 at 15:55, 27 April 2021