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<p><b>New page</b></p><div>{{short description|Traditional embroidery style from Lucknow, India}}<br />
{{Use dmy dates|date=May 2017}}<br />
{{Use Indian English|date=May 2017}}<br />
[[File:Craft Artisans of India 02.jpg|alt=Chikankari hand-embroidery|thumb|Traditional Chikankari hand-embroidery by [https://www.instagram.com/p/CMrZFW3HUt3/ Craft Artisans of India]]]<br />
'''Chikankari''' ({{Langx|ur|{{nq|چِکن کاری}}}}, {{langx|hi|चिकन की कढ़ाई, चिकनकारी}}) is a traditional [[embroidery]] style from [[Lucknow]], [[India]].<br />
Translated, the word means embroidery (using thread or wire), and it is one of Lucknow's best known textile decoration styles. The main market in Lucknow for Chikankari based products is Chowk. Production is mainly based in Lucknow and in the adjoining districts.<br />
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==Origin==<br />
There are references to embroidery similar to chikan work in India as early as 3rd century BC by [[Megasthenes]], who mentioned use of flowered [[muslin]]s by Indians, but these embroidered patterns lacked the characteristic features of chikan, such as colour, ornamentation, or any notable embellishment.<ref>{{Cite book|chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=AKFN7hyH6OcC&q=There+are+many+different+stories+of+the+origin+of+chikankari%2C+but+there+is+no+clear+historical+evidence+supporting+any+of+them.+The+word+chikankari+in+Hindi+means&pg=PA264|title=Asian Embroidery|editor-last=Dhamija|editor-first=Jasleen|last=Manfredi|first=Paola|chapter=Chikankari of Lucknow|date=2004|publisher=Abhinav Publications|isbn=9788170174509|language=en}}</ref> According to [[Laila Tyabji]], chikankari stems from the white-on-white embroidery of [[Shiraz]] came to India as part of a culture of [[Persians|Persian]] nobles at the [[Mughal Empire|Mughal]] court.<ref>{{Cite book|chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=AKFN7hyH6OcC&q=White+on+white+embroidery+of+Shiraz&pg=PA264|title=Asian Embroidery|editor-last=Dhamija|editor-first=Jasleen|last=Manfredi|first=Paola|chapter=Chikankari of Lucknow|date=2004|publisher=Abhinav Publications|isbn=9788170174509|language=en}}</ref> There is also a tale that mentions how a traveler taught chikan to a peasant in return of water to drink. The most popular origin story credits [[Nur Jahan|Noor Jahan]], Mughal empress and wife of [[Jahangir]], for introducing chikankari to India.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.culturalindia.net/indian-crafts/chikankari.html |title=Chikankari |publisher=Cultural India |access-date=2013-08-11}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |url=https://archive.org/details/embroideringlive0000wilk |url-access=registration |title=Embroidering Lives: Women's Work and Skill in the Lucknow Embroidery Industry |first=Clare M. |last=Wilkinson-Weber |date=1999 |pages=[https://archive.org/details/embroideringlive0000wilk/page/12 12]–13 |publisher=State University of New York Press |isbn=9780791440872}}</ref><br />
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Chikan began as a type of white-on-white (or [[whitework embroidery|whitework]]) embroidery.<ref>{{cite book |url=https://archive.org/details/embroideringlive0000wilk |url-access=registration |title=Embroidering Lives: Women's Work and Skill in the Lucknow Embroidery Industry |first=Clare M. |last=Wilkinson-Weber |date=1999 |page=[https://archive.org/details/embroideringlive0000wilk/page/24 24] |publisher=State University of New York Press |isbn=9780791440872}}</ref><br />
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==Technique==<br />
The technique of chikan embroidery is known as ''chikankari'' ({{lang|hi|चिकनकारी}} {{nastaliq|چکن کاری}}). Chikankari is a delicate and artfully done hand embroidery on a variety of textile fabrics like cotton, chanderi, muslin, georgette, viscose, silk, organza, net, etc. White thread is embroidered on cool, pastel shades of light muslin and cotton garments. Nowadays ''chikan'' embroidery is also done with colored and silk threads in colors to meet the fashion trends and keep chikankari up-to-date. Lucknow is the heart of the ''chikankari'' industry today and the variety is known as ''Lucknawi chikan''.<br />
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Chikan work in recent times has adopted additional embellishments like Mukaish, Kamdani, Badla, sequin, bead, and mirror work, which gives it a rich look. Chikan embroidery is mostly done on fabrics like cotton, semi-Georgette, pure Georgette, crepe, chiffon, silk, and any other fabric which is light and which highlights the embroidery. The fabric cannot be too thick or hard, else the embroidery needle won't pierce it. Also, sheer fabric allows the part of the stitches on the reverse of the fabric to give a shadow effect, which is characteristic of the technique.<br />
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The piece begins with one or more pattern blocks that are used to block-print a pattern on the ground fabric. The embroiderer stitches the pattern, and the finished piece is carefully washed to remove all traces of the printed pattern.<ref name=dusenbury>Dusenbury, Mary M. (2004). ''Flowers, Dragons and Pine Trees: Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art''. Hudson Hills Press. p. 42. {{ISBN|1-55595-238-0}}.</ref> The process of ''chikankari'' includes the following steps:<br />
* Design<br />
* Engraving<br />
* Block printing<br />
* Embroidery<br />
* Washing and finishing<br />
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===Stitches===<br />
The patterns and effects created depend on the stitches and the thicknesses of the threads used. Some of the stitches include [[backstitch]], [[chain stitch]] and hemstitch. The result is an open work pattern, ''jali'' ([[lace]]) or shadow-work. Often the embroiderer creates mesh-like sections by using a needle to separate threads in the ground fabric, and then working around the spaces.<ref name=dusenbury/> It consists of 32 stitches:<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.hand-embroidery.com/stitches-in-chikankari.html |title=Stitches in Chikankari |publisher=Hand-embroidery.com |access-date=2013-08-11 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100614053226/http://www.hand-embroidery.com/stitches-in-chikankari.html |archive-date=14 June 2010 |url-status=dead }}</ref><br />
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{{multiple image<br />
| image1 = Chikan embroidery, Lucknow.jpg<br />
| caption1 = Front view of Bakhiya Chikan embroidery being done over temporary [[block print]]ed pattern<br />
| image2 = Chikan embroidery from the back, Lucknow.jpg<br />
| caption2 = Bakhiya Chikan embroidery from the back<br />
}}<br />
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* {{lang|hi-Latn|Chikankari-Tepchi}} is a long-running or darning stitch worked with six strands on the right side of the fabric taken over four threads and picking up one. Thus, a line is formed. It is used principally as a basis for further stitchery and occasionally to form a simple shape.<ref>{{cite web |title=Tepchi Stitch: Running Stitches In Chikankari |url=https://www.utsavpedia.com/motifs-embroideries/tepchistitch/ |website=Utsavpedia |access-date=25 October 2019 |date=17 August 2015}}</ref><br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Bakhiya}} — 'Shadow work' or {{lang|hi-Latn|bhakia}} is one of the stitches of chikankari. The reason for the name shadow is that the embroidery is done on wrong side and we see its shadow on the right side.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Brijbhushan |first1=Jamila |title=Indian Embroidery |date=2006 |publisher=Publications Division, Ministry of Information and Broadcasting, Government of India |isbn=8123013698 |page=[https://archive.org/details/indianembroidery00brij/page/46 46] |url=https://archive.org/details/indianembroidery00brij}}</ref><br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Hool}} is a fine detached eyelet stitch. A hole is punched in the fabric and the threads are teased apart. It is then held by small straight stitches all round and worked with one thread on the right side of the fabric. It can be worked with six threads and often forms the center of a flower.<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Zanzeera}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Rahet}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Banarsi}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Khatau}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Phanda}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Murri}} is the form of stitch used to embroider the centre of the flowers in chikan work motifs. They are typically French knots that are rice-shaped. Murri is the oldest and most sought-after form of chikankari. The use of this stitch is depleting due to a decrease in the artisans doing this embroidery.<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Jali}} stitch is one where the thread is never drawn through the fabric, ensuring that the back portion of the garment looks as impeccable as the front. The warp and weft threads are carefully drawn apart and minute buttonhole stitches are inserted into the cloth.<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Turpai}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Darzdari}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Pechani}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Bijli}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Ghaspatti}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Makra}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Kauri}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Hathkadi}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Banjkali}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Sazi}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Karan}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Kapkapi}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Madrazi}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Bulbul-chasm}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Taj Mahal}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Janjeera}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Kangan'}}'<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Dhania-patti}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Rozan}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Meharki}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Chanapatti}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Baalda}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Jora}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Keel kangan}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Bulbul}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Sidhaul}}<br />
* {{lang|hi-Latn|Ghas ki patti}}<br />
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==GI status==<br />
[[Geographical Indication Registry (India)|Geographical Indication Registry (GIR)]] accorded [[Geographical indication|Geographical Indication (GI)]] status for chikankari in December 2008, which recognized Lucknow as an exclusive hub of chikankari.<ref>{{cite news|title=Chikankari GI a step towards international branding|url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/lucknow/Chikankari-GI-a-step-towards-international-branding/articleshow/3986050.cms|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140131113159/http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2009-01-16/lucknow/28040361_1_geographical-indication-lucknow-gi-certification|url-status=live|archive-date=31 January 2014|access-date=10 July 2013|newspaper=[[The Times of India]]|date=16 January 2009<!--, 12.23am IST-->}}</ref><br />
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==In popular culture==<br />
The 1986 Indian film ''[[Anjuman (1986 film)|Anjuman]]'' directed by [[Muzaffar Ali]] and starring [[Shabana Azmi]] and [[Farooque Shaikh]] is set in [[Lucknow]] and deals with issues of chikan workers.<ref name="NeedhamRajan2006">{{cite book|author1=Anuradha Dingwaney Needham|author2=Rajeswari Sunder Rajan|title=The Crisis of Secularism in India|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=NZktMeq6tzwC&pg=PA235|date=28 December 2006|publisher=Duke University Press|isbn=0-8223-8841-3|pages=235–236}}</ref><br />
In fact, Farooque Shaikh was so charmed by this fabric and style that he wore chikan all his life and came to be identified as a brand ambassador of sorts of Lakhnavi chikankari.<br />
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==References==<br />
{{Reflist}}<br />
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==Further reading==<br />
* {{cite book |title=Romancing With Chikankari |first=Veena |last=Singh |publisher=Tushar Publications |date=2004}}<br />
* {{cite book|last=Paine|first=Sheila |author-link=Sheila Paine |title=Chikan embroidery: the floral whitework of India|year=1989|publisher=Shire Publications|isbn=0-7478-0009-X}}<br />
* {{cite book | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=4iP4ZwEACAAJ&q=Chikankari | title=Chikankari Embrodery of Lucknow | publisher=National Institute of Design | first=Ashok |last=Rai | year=1992}}<br />
* {{cite book |last1=Tyabji |first1=Laila |title=Threads & Voices: Behind the Indian Textile Tradition |date=2007 |publisher=Marg Publications |isbn=9788185026794 |language=en}}<br />
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==External links==<br />
*{{commonscat-inline}}<br />
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{{embroidery}}<br />
{{Geographical indications in Uttar Pradesh}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Embroidery in India]]<br />
[[Category:Culture of Lucknow]]<br />
[[Category:Culture of Uttar Pradesh]]<br />
[[Category:Economy of Lucknow]]<br />
[[Category:Geographical indications in Uttar Pradesh]]</div>Coin45bazzar