2405:204:A683:141F:0:0:2818:28A4 at 17:40, 31 May 2022

2022-05-31T17:40:54Z

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{{short description|Type of blouse, worn with the sari}}
{{About||the villages in Iran|Cheli, Iran (disambiguation){{!}}Cheli, Iran|the village in Cyprus|Choli, Cyprus}}
[[File:Choli.jpg|thumb|Woman in choli c. 1872.]]
A '''choli''' ([[Hindi]]: चोली, [[Urdu]]: چولی, {{lang-gu| ચોળી}}, {{lang-mr|चोळी}}, [[Nepali language|Nepali]]: चोलो ''cholo'') (known in South India as ''ravike'' ([[Kannada language|Kannada]]: ರವಿಕೆ, [[Telugu language|Telugu]]: రవికె, [[Tamil language|Tamil]]: ரவிக்கை)) is a [[blouse]] or a [[bodice]]-like upper garment that is commonly cut short leaving the [[midriff]] bare, it is worn along with a [[sari]] in the [[Indian subcontinent]]. The choli is also part of the [[Gagra choli|ghagra choli]] costume in the Indian subcontinent.

In Northern Gujarat bordering Rajasthan, Palanpur in particular (Banaskantha), Polku, {{lang-gu| પોલકું}} word was used.

==Evolution==
[[File:Kutch blouse.jpg|thumb|Choli from [[Gujarat]] at the [[Peabody Essex Museum]].]]
{{multiple image
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| header =
| image1 = Choli.JPG
| alt1 = Choli
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| image2 = Choli2.JPG
| alt2 = Choli
| caption2 = Traditional choli tied at the back from [[Braj]] region of [[Uttar Pradesh]].
}}
[[File:Ghagra Choli.jpg|thumb|upright|Woman in an ancient form of long, front-covering choli, tied at the back.]]
[[File:ರವಿಕೆ - ವ&ಅ ಮುಸೆಉಮ್.jpg|thumb|Ravike from [[Karnataka]] with [[Kasuti]] embroidery c. 1855–1879. [[Victoria and Albert Museum|V&A Museum]].]]

The choli evolved from the ancient ''[[stanapatta]]'', also known as ''kurpsika'' or ''[[Kanchuka|kanchuki]]'', which was one of the forms of three-piece attire worn by women during the ancient period.<ref>Prachya Pratibha, 1978 "Prachya Pratibha, Volume 6", p. 121</ref> This consisted of the ''[[antriya]]'' lower garment; the ''[[uttariya]]'' veil worn over shoulder or head; and the ''stanapatta,'' a chestband, which is mentioned in [[Sanskrit]] literature and Buddhist [[Pali]] literature during the 6th century BC.<ref>Agam Kala Prakashan, 1991 "Costume, coiffure, and ornaments in the temple sculpture of northern Andhra", p. 118</ref>

Paintings from [[Maharashtra]] and [[Gujarat]] from the first millennium BCE are considered the first recorded examples of the choli.<ref>Prachya Pratibha, 1978 "Prachya Pratibha, Volume 6", p. 121</ref> Poetic references from works such as [[Silappatikaram|''Silapadikkaram'']] indicate that during the [[Sangam period]] (third-century BCE to fourth-century CE in ancient South India), a single piece of clothing served as both lower garment and upper shawl.<ref>Linda Lynton, Sanjay K. Singh (2002) "The Sari: Styles, Patterns, History, Techniques.", p. 40</ref> Paintings and sculpture indicate that the ''stanapatta'' evolved into the choli by the first century CE, in various regional styles.<ref>Prachya Pratibha, 1978 "Prachya Pratibha, Volume 6", p. 121</ref> ''[[Rajatarangini]]'', a tenth-century literary work by [[Kalhana]], states that the choli from the [[Deccan Plateau|Deccan]] was introduced under the royal order in Kashmir.<ref name="Vijay Singh Katiyar">{{cite book|last1=Katiyar|first1=Vijai Singh|title=Indian saris : traditions, perspectives, design|date=2009|publisher=Wisdom Tree in association with National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad|location=New Delhi|isbn=9788183281225|pages=211|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=8RjgPQAACAAJ|access-date=31 October 2015}}</ref>

Early cholis were front-covering and tied at the back. Cholis of this kind are still common in state of [[Rajasthan]].<ref>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=4_Rl5c_v1-kC&q=India:+past+%26+present+By+Prakash+Chander|title=India: past & present – Prakash Chander |isbn=9788176484558 |via=Google Books|access-date=13 November 2011|last1=Chander |first1=Prakash |year=2003 }}</ref> In Nepal, the garment is known as a ''cholo'', and in Southern India as a ''ravike.'' Both of these styles are tied at the front, unlike Northern Indian cholis, which are tied at the back. In parts of the Hindi Belt, mostly in Rajasthan, [[Haryana]] and [[Uttar Pradesh]], women wore vest-like garments, known as ''kanchli'', over choli; this complete costume is known as the ''[[poshak]]''.<ref>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=nckSAQAAIAAJ|title=Costume, textiles and jewellery of India: traditions in Rajasthan|last=Bhandari|first=Vandana|publisher=Mercury Books|year=2005|isbn=9780811810845|page=84}}</ref>

===Historical paintings===
<gallery>
Image:Ajanta Paintings.jpg|Women in Choli and [[Antariya]] CE 320 [[Gupta Empire]].
Image:Aj2.jpg|Women in Choli CE 320 [[Gupta Empire]]. The early form of Choli tied at the back with the front covering.
Image:Iacuci11d0b62ppy.D.0.Ajanta-Cave-painting-Painting-Dance.jpg|Dancing girl in Kurta/Salwar-like Choli [[Gupta Empire]].
File:Detail of a leaf with the birth of mahavira.jpg| Kalpasutra Manuscript c. 1375–1400. Example of early form of full sleeve choli.
File:Vasant Rangini, Detail 15th century.jpg| Detail of Vasant Ragini, Rajastani painting 1500s showing early form of choli tied at the back.
File:Krishna_defeats_Trinavarta.jpg|Bhagavata Purana manuscript c. 1525–40
File:Bhairavi Ragini, Manley Ragamala, an album painting in gouache on paper.jpg|Bhairavi Ragini, Manley Ragamala manuscript c. 1610.
File:Female musicians wedding of Aurangzeb.jpg|Female musicians at Aurangzeb's wedding - Mughal c. 1636.
File:Kangra Painting.jpg|Krishna flirting with the Gopis, to Radhas sorrow - Kangra Painting c. 1760. Full sleeve choli and bodies are worn in Himalayan states of India.
File:Lady being offered wine, Deccan, 1600 AD.jpg|Lady being offered wine, Deccan, 1600 CE.
</gallery>

===Historic photographs===
<gallery>
File:Ghagra Choli1.jpg|Woman in Gagra Choli
Image:Tamil Girl.jpg|Tamil girl in choli
File:Tamil Sari.jpg|Tamil women in choli
File:Bengali Sari.jpg|Bengali girl in full sleeve choli (1880)
File:Ceylon India 1880.jpg|[[Sri Lanka]]n woman in choli (1880)
File:Marathi Women.jpg|Marathi woman in choli
File:Krishnacart.jpg| Plaque depicting ancient form of long choli and gagra worn during [[Gupta Empire]]
File:Sindhi lehenga, choli and Sindhi traditional pantaloon shalwar.jpg|Woman in [[Sindh]]i choli 1845
</gallery>

==Changing times==
[[File:Vidya Balan Insult India Parade or Bollywood Parade.jpg|thumb|upright|left|Bollywood actress [[Vidya Balan]] is known for wearing deep-back cholis.<ref name=str>{{cite news|last=Nimisha Tiwari |title=The choli lowdown!|url=http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2011-06-19/trends/29493005_1_choli-saree-blouse|archive-url=https://archive.today/20130103172821/http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2011-06-19/trends/29493005_1_choli-saree-blouse|url-status=dead|archive-date=3 January 2013|access-date=19 July 2017|newspaper=[[The Times of India]] |date=19 June 2011}}</ref><ref name="vidya"/>]]

Traditionally, the choli has been made from the same fabric as the sari, with many sari producers adding extra length to their products so that women can cut off the excess fabric at the end of the sari and use it to sew a matching choli.{{fact|date=October 2013}} For everyday wear, [[cotton]]-based materials and silk cotton are widely considered the most comfortable. [[Chiffon (fabric)|Chiffon]] and [[silk]] are best suited for formal occasions.<ref name=hind>{{cite news|first=Neeti | last=Sarkar | title=Choli ke peeche | url=http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-metroplus/article485880.ece |access-date=21 March 2012 | newspaper=[[The Hindu]] | date=June 26, 2010}}</ref> The ideal fabric for cholis in the summer is chiffon and [[Georgette (fabric)|georgette]].<ref name=ad>{{cite news| first=A. D. | last=Singh| title=Summer breezers | url=http://www.deccanchronicle.com/channels/lifestyle/fashion/summer-breezers-695|access-date=21 March 2012 | newspaper=[[Deccan Chronicle]] | date=March 10, 2012}}</ref>

Designers have experimented with the choli, influencing pop-culture fashion in the Indian subcontinent, with adventurous tailoring and innovative necklines, such as [[halterneck|halter]], [[tube top|tubes]], [[Backless dress#choli|backless]] or [[Spaghetti strap|stringed]].<ref name="vidya">{{cite news|title=Vidya Balan puts plunge cholis on fashion map |url=http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2011-12-20/trends/30474361_1_cholis-corsets-neeta-lulla|archive-url=https://archive.today/20120701175127/http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2011-12-20/trends/30474361_1_cholis-corsets-neeta-lulla|url-status=dead|archive-date=July 1, 2012|access-date=12 April 2012 |newspaper=[[The Times of India]] |date=December 20, 2011}}</ref> Anupama Raj, a designer and boutique owner, commented that "there is a very real need to re-invent the choli so that it can be worn with a variety of outfits. Just as we see the choli to be a deconstructed form of the blouse, we need to deconstruct the choli." Bobby Malik, an exporter-turned-designer commented "the choli is the most sensuous of all garments created for women. It not only flatters the feminine form, but also brings out the romanticism in a woman. But where Indian designers have failed is at giving it an international look and making it still more beautiful."<ref name="chdes">{{cite news| first=Sumona | last=Roy|title=Deconstructing the choli into daring designs |url=http://www.tribuneindia.com/2002/20020831/windows/fashion.htm|access-date=13 April 2012|newspaper=The Tribune|date=August 31, 2002}}</ref>

==Recent styles==
<gallery>
File:Sherlyn Chopra at Playboy press meet 05.jpg|
File:Priyanka Pripri photograph.jpg
File:AmeeshaPatel04.jpg
File:IndianModel.jpg
File:Sofia hayat arjun.jpg
File:Kajol at Shantanu-Nikhil's store launch (42).jpg

File:Woman wearing sari (31000048043).jpg

File:Koppikar.jpg

</gallery>

==See also==
* [[Blouse]]
* [[Bralette]]
* [[Sari]]
* [[Gagra choli]]

==References==
{{reflist|30em}}

==External links==
*{{Commons category inline}}

{{embroidery}}
{{Sri Lankan clothing}}
{{Clothing in South Asia}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Choli}}
[[Category:Indian clothing]]
[[Category:Pakistani clothing]]
[[Category:Embroidery]]
[[Category:Needlework]]
[[Category:Saris]]
[[Category:Tops (clothing)]]
[[Category:Kerala clothing]]
[[Category:Embroidery in India]]
[[Category:Sri Lankan clothing]]

Choli - Revision history

2405:204:A683:141F:0:0:2818:28A4 at 17:40, 31 May 2022