>Citation bot at 05:38, 17 March 2021

2021-03-17T05:38:35Z

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{{Use dmy dates|date=June 2019}}
{{Use Indian English|date=June 2019}}
{{Infobox geographical indication
| name = Dharmavaram Silk Sarees
| color =
| logo =
| image = మగ్గం నేస్తున్న మహిళ. IMG 20200126 145718-01.jpg
| image_size =
| alt =
| caption = Women at work in Dharmavaram
| alternative names =
| description =
| type = [[Textile]]
| area = [[Dharmavaram, Anantapur district|Dharmavaram]], [[Anantapur district]], [[Andhra Pradesh]]
| country = [[India]]
| registered =
| material = {{plainlist|[[Mulberry silkworm|Mulberry silk]]
* [[Zari]]
}}
| official website =
|Phone number=8309662249}}
'''Dharmavaram handloom pattu sarees and paavadas''' are [[textiles]] woven by hand with [[Mulberry silkworm|mulberry silk]] and [[zari]].<ref>{{cite news|title=Made in India: a look at some of the latest Indian products that got GI status|url=http://indianexpress.com/article/india/india-others/made-in-india-a-look-at-some-of-the-latest-indian-products-that-got-gi-status/|access-date=27 January 2016|work=The Indian Express|date=1 February 2015}}</ref> They are made in [[Dharmavaram, Anantapur district|Dharmavaram]] of [[Anantapur district]] in the [[States and Territories of India|Indian state]] of [[Andhra Pradesh]]. It was registered as one of the [[geographical indication]] from Andhra Pradesh by ''Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999''.<ref>{{cite news|title=Geographical Indication|url=http://www.thehansindia.com/posts/index/Hans/2016-01-23/Geographical-Indication/201919|access-date=27 January 2016|work=The Hans India|date=23 January 2016}}</ref><ref name="GI">{{cite web|title=:::GIR Search:::|url=http://ipindiaservices.gov.in/GirPublic/index.aspx|website=ipindiaservices.gov.in|access-date=5 May 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170508144957/http://ipindiaservices.gov.in/GirPublic/index.aspx|archive-date=8 May 2017|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref name="GIlist">{{cite web|title=State Wise Registration Details of G.I Applications (15th September, 2003 – Till Date)|url=http://www.ipindia.nic.in/writereaddata/Portal/News/283_1_REGISTRATION_DETAILS_OF_GI_TILL_DATE_March_2012_Till_Date.pdf|website=Geographical Indication Registry|access-date=5 May 2017|page=7}}</ref>

== History ==

''Kriya Shakthi Vodavaru Swamy'' named Dharmavaram after the name of his mother, Dharmambai in the year 1153–54 [[AD]]. By 19th century, silk handloom industry emerged as the main occupation. Paintings on the roof wall of Lepakshi temple and Latha Mandapam depicts the designs of Dharmavaram saris.<ref name=GI_description>{{cite journal|title=Geographical Indications Journal|date=28 November 2013|volume=37|pages=63–73|url=http://ipindia.nic.in/girindia/journal/Journal_54.pdf|access-date=27 January 2016|publisher=Government of India|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140802143551/http://ipindia.nic.in/girindia/journal/Journal_54.pdf|archive-date=2 August 2014|url-status=dead}}</ref>

== Stages of production ==

The production of the Dharmavaram saris and Paavadas includes different stages which includes:<ref name=GI_description />

*''Raw materials'' – pure [[Mulberry silk]] in yarn form or raw silk, zari threads of red, green, silver and gold, acid dyes, soap and soda for degumming, water
*''Quality of silk'' – cocoons are boiled in steam to obtain yarn and ''Denier silk'' and undergoes twisting and formation of warp and weft.
*''Degumming of silk purification'' – process involves boiling of yarn with soda ash and soap to remove natural gums.
*''Plying of Yarn'' – [[Plying]] of yarn is done to create a balanced yarn which is done for both sari and pavadas.
*''Dyeing'' – usage of acid dyes for shades from rainbow colors, plied yarn absorbs dye in hot water, the entire process involves certain aspects like liquor ratio, temperature, chemicals in dye, [[pH]] etc. Kuttu Dharmavaram sari weaving involves [[Tie and dye]] method
*''Drying'' – after the above process, the yarn is dried indoor on bamboo sticks.

'''Pre-loom process'''

*''Winding of hank yarn into warp and weft'' – [[Spinning wheel#Charkha|charka]], shift bamboo and [[bobbin]] are used to form [[Warp (weaving)|warp]]. While, the [[weft]] is made with help of a [[pirn]].
*''Street sizing'' – the warp extension, spraying of [[conjee|rice conjee]] ensures suitable weaving followed by drying.
*''Weaving process'' – it involves [[Warp and Weft]] method of weaving and sometimes replaced by [[Jacquard weaving]] and [[Dobby (cloth)|Dobby]]. Usage of only [[Loom|pitlooms]] for weaving and no [[powerloom]]s and petni technique.
*''Cutting and folding'' – designing and cutting per the goods demand for marketing take place

== Usage ==
The saris are worn in [[winter]] or cold conditions, for functions, and are mostly used by dancers of [[Bharath Natyam]] and [[Kuchipudi]].<ref name=GI_description />

== References ==
{{Reflist}}

[[Category:Anantapur district]]
[[Category:Geographical indications in Andhra Pradesh]]
[[Category:Handloom sarees]]

Dharmavaram handloom pattu sarees and paavadas - Revision history

>Citation bot at 05:38, 17 March 2021