>Qwerfjkl at 21:21, 4 July 2021

2021-07-04T21:21:44Z

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{{short description|Traditional clothing of women from Indian Subcontinent}}
[[File:Marathi dancing girls.jpg|thumb|upright|Women in ghagra choli ca.1872]]
'''Ghagra choli''', (also known as '''lehenga choli''' and locally as '''chaniya choli'''), is a type of [[ethnic clothing]] for women from [[Indian Subcontinent]], notably in the Indian states of [[Rajasthan]],<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?ei=m2NjTqTpCYHDgQfq37ixCg&ct=result&id=tU5uAAAAMAAJ&dq=lehenga+Rajasthan&q=lehenga+#search_anchor Rajasthan (district Gazetteers) – Rajsamand]</ref><ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=nqvloPNdEZgC&dq=marathi+sari&q=lehenga#v=snippet&q=ghagra&f=false People of India: Rajasthan, Part 1 – K. S. Singh]</ref> [[Gujarat]],<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=4Cy_-FXW9BQC&dq=marathi+sari&q=lehenga#v=snippet&q=ghagra&f=false Gujarat, Volume 1 – Rash Bihari Lal, Anthropological Survey of India]</ref> [[Madhya Pradesh]], [[Uttar Pradesh]], [[Bihar]], [[Haryana]], [[Punjab, India|Punjab]], [[Himachal Pradesh]], [[Uttarakhand]], [[Jammu and Kashmir (union territory)|Jammu and Kashmir]], as well as in the Pakistani provinces of [[Punjab, Pakistan|Punjab]] and [[Sindh]]. In [[Punjab region|Punjab]], the ''lehenga'' is traditionally worn with a [[Kurti top|kurti]].<ref>https://books.google.co.in/books?id=9NbNSeHD3p4C&pg=RA3-PA54&dq=ghagra+underskirt+half+slip&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiwzuHdwIrxAhVozDgGHS4eAH4Q6AEwAXoECAsQAw#v=onepage&q=ghagra%20underskirt%20half%20slip&f=false</ref><ref>Punjabi Sabhiachaar barey by Jit Singh Joshi Waris Shah Foundation</ref> It is a combination of the ''gagra'' or ''lehenga'' (long skirt) and the ''choli'' (blouse), however in contemporary and modern usage ''lehenga choli'' is the more popular and widely accepted term by fashion designers, trend setters, and boutiques in South Asia, since ''ghagra'' is synonymous with the [[half-slip]] worn as an undergarment below the [[sari]].

==Terms and history==
Historically, the gagra choli evolved from the three-piece attire worn by women in ancient India. The attire consisted of the ''[[antriya]]'' lower garment, the ''[[uttariya]]'' veil worn over shoulder or head and ''stanapatta'' a chest-band, which finds mentioned in [[Sanskrit]] literature and Buddhist [[Pali]] literature during the 6th century B.C.<ref>Agam Kala Prakashan, 1991 "Costume, coiffure, and ornaments in the temple sculpture of northern Andhra", p.118</ref>

===Choli===
{{Main|Choli}}
[[File:Gagra Choli.jpg|thumb|170px|Woman in traditional style of gagra choli worn in the [[Hindi belt]].]]
A ''choli'' ([[Hindi]]: चोली, [[Urdu]]: چولی, {{lang-ne|चोलो}}), (''ravike'' in South India [[Telugu language|Telugu]]: రవికె, [[Kannada language|Kannada]]: ರವಿಕೆ) is a [[midriff]]-baring [[blouse]] commonly worn with the Indian [[sari]] costume (worn in [[India]], [[Pakistan]], [[Sri Lanka]], [[Bangladesh]], [[Nepal]] and other surrounding countries). It evolved from the ancient ''Stanapatta'' (also known as ''Kanchuki'') and is cut to fit tightly to the body with its short sleeves and low neck. The choli is usually cropped, allowing exposure of the [[navel]]; the cropped design is particularly well-suited for wear in the hot summers of the [[Indian subcontinent]].

===Gagra===
{{Main|Lehenga}}
[[File:Lengha Choli.jpg|thumb|upright|Illustration of different regional variations of ghagra choli worn by women in India]]
''Lehenga'', ''gagra''/''ghagra'' ([[Hindi]]: घाघरा ''ghāghrā'') also ''chaniya''<ref name="Fashions from India - Tom Tierney">[https://books.google.com/books?id=hdOsQadR9_cC&pg=PA3&dq=waist+chain+india&hl=en&ei=gLtuTsTaLajZ0QGp8qmCCg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDIQ6AEwAjgo#v=onepage&q=midriff&f=false Fashions from India – Tom Tierney]</ref> (known as ''pavadai'' in [[Tamil language|Tamil]]: பாவாடை) is a form of skirt which is long, embroidered and pleated. It is secured at the waist or hips and leaves the lower back and [[midriff]] bare.<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=W7c8TBQhoAIC&pg=PA148&dq=lehenga+saree&hl=en&ei=J1VjTvuNEZTUgAfvvuGsCg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=9&ved=0CGEQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&q&f=false Social Science a Textbook in History for Class IX as per New Syllabus – FK Publications]</ref> The ancient version of skirt or ''ghagri'' evolved from ''bhairnivasani'', which in turn evolved from the [[antriya]] when stitching on one side became tubular and was worn gathered together at the waist, and held by a girdle. This was one of the earliest forms of a clumsily stitched skirt. It was worn using a ''nada'' or drawstring. The ''ghagri'' was a narrow skirt {{convert|6|feet}} long—the same length as the original ''antriya''—and can still be seen worn by [[Jain nun]]s in India.

Until the early 20th century, women irrespective of class largely wore gagras which reached down to ankles, especially in the [[Hindi belt]]. This was largely due to jeweled toes indicating the marital status of women, as both married and unmarried women observed the [[ghoonghat]] veil. Gagras were made out of two to three layers of coarse khadi fabric which created large flared look and remained largely plain but were decorated with ''gota'' and ''badla'' embroidery on special occasions. Most commonly used dyes were indigo, lac and turmeric. This style can still be seen in rural areas of [[Haryana]], [[Uttar Pradesh]], [[Bihar]] & [[Madhya Pradesh]] particularly during folk festivals.

[[File:Ghagra Choli.jpg|thumb|140px|Woman in gagra and long front covering [[choli]] tied at the back]]

===Dupatta===
{{Main|Dupatta}}
The '''dupatta''' ([[Hindi]]: दुपट्टा, [[Urdu]]: دوپٹا) or '''chunri''' (known as ''oṛna'' in [[Bengali language|Bengali]]: ওড়না) is a scarf that is like a shawl and is worn with the gagra and choli. It is also used as part of the women's [[shalwar kameez]] costume. It is an evolved form of the [[Uttariya]]. Until the early 21st century, the dupatta was the most decorative part of gagra choli, while the rest of the garment was plainer, especially the gagra was an everyday one. Dupatta is worn in many regional styles across India. The most common style since early medieval times was to pleat the dupatta on one end, so it can be anchored by tucking it into the front waist of the gagra. The loose end is then wrapped across the waist and/or draped diagonally across the upper body to fall over the shoulder, or up and over to cover the head. This is similar to the way a sari is generally worn. Women farming or doing manual work tuck both ends of the dupatta into their choli.

The dupatta is traditionally seen as a symbol of modesty, as its main purpose is to serve as a [[veil]]. There is no single way of wearing it, so as time passed and fashion changed, the styling of the dupatta also evolved.

==Fabrics==
The Ghagri-Choli are made of a number of fabrics such as [[silk]], [[cotton]], [[khadi]],<ref name="ch">{{cite news|last=Dhanwanti Keshavrao|title=Dressed for dandiya|url=http://www.tribuneindia.com/2005/20051008/saturday/main4.htm|access-date=12 April 2012|newspaper=The Tribune|date=October 8, 2005}}</ref> [[Georgette (fabric)|georgette]], [[crape]], [[Net (textile)|net]], [[satin]], [[brocade]] and [[Chiffon (fabric)|chiffon]].<ref>[http://www.nrigujarati.co.in/14/1/women/a-types-of-indian-lehengas.html Types of Indian Lehengas – nrigujarati.co.in]</ref> Although designers have successfully used various fabrics for lehenga, silk is still the preferred fabric.

==Decorative stitching==
Apart from the fabric, decorative stitching patterns also play a role. Lehengas come with a wide variety of decoration and embroidery work like [[Gota Work|Gota]], [[Phulkari]], [[Shisha (embroidery)|Shisha]], [[Chikankari]], [[Zari]], [[Zardozi]], [[Nakshi Kantha|Nakshi]], [[Kundan]], etc.<ref>[http://www.newsbycompany.com/post/view/8826/The-latest-fashion-trends-in-saree-collection/ The latest fashion trends in saree collection – newsbycompany.com]</ref> For festivals like [[Navratri]], the ethnic [[Shisha (embroidery)|Shisha]] embroidery is popular with a bit of patchwork. For formal wear and weddings, the embroidery is heavier in pearls, silk, sequins and zari.<ref name="ch" />

[[Kutch]] embroidery is an evolving expression of the craft and textile traditions of the [[Rabari]]s, a nomadic tribe in Gujarat. Kutch embroidery is unique in the sense that a net is woven on a cloth using thread. The net is then filled in using the same thread by intricate interlocking stitches. The patterns are usually built around geometric shapes. This embroidery follows its own traditional design logic and juxtaposition of colours and motifs.<ref>{{cite news|last=K.JESHI|title=Exquisite embroidery|url=http://www.hindu.com/thehindu/mp/2004/07/19/stories/2004071900860300.htm|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20040813184803/http://www.hindu.com/thehindu/mp/2004/07/19/stories/2004071900860300.htm|url-status=dead|archive-date=August 13, 2004|access-date=12 April 2012|date=Jul 19, 2004|newspaper=[[The Hindu]]|location=Chennai, India}}</ref> The Rohanas tribals of Kutch specialise in skirt work. The Sodhas use a geometric style for their embroidery. The Garacia [[Jats of Kutch|Jats]] are experts in tiny embroidery on the yoke, which intermingles with red, orange, blue and green threads. The [[Jats of Kutch|Dhanetah Jats]] love embroidering broad pear-shaped mirrors using orange, black, yellow and red in chain stitch.<ref name="ch" />

==Festive attire==
The lehenga choli is the favourite female apparel worn during festivals, weddings or special events in India. This is due to traditions as well as of the fact that it is available in a number of fabrics with many different decorative choices.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.articlesnatch.com/Article/Lehengas--An-Elegant-Wear/2036015 |title=Lehengas-An Elegant Wear – Pooja Lapasia |access-date=2011-09-18 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120331052407/http://www.articlesnatch.com/Article/Lehengas--An-Elegant-Wear/2036015 |archive-date=2012-03-31 |url-status=dead }}</ref> Traditionally the sari and the lehenga choli are the most popular garments for the bride in India.<ref>[https://web.archive.org/web/20070501203550/http://www.hindu.com/2007/01/24/stories/2007012400610500.htm Fashionable wedding attire – The Hindu]</ref> This is a common bridal attire mostly in [[North India]] and is also the traditional wear of Garba festival in [[Gujarat]].<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=Lsai4v554d8C&dq=lehenga+saree&source=gbs_navlinks_s India – R.I.C. Publications]</ref>

==Ritu Kala – significance in rite of passage==
{{main| Langa Voni|Ritu Kala}}
In southern India, coming of age ceremony or rites of passage (''langa voni'' Telugu: లంగా వోని, ''Pattu Pavadai'' Tamil: பட்டு பாவாடை, ''Langa Davani'' Kannada: ಲಂಗ ದ್ವನಿ) are celebrated when a girl reaches puberty. She wears [[langa voni]] during the first part of the ceremony and then she is given her first sari, which she wears during the second half of the ceremony. This marks her transition into womanhood.

The tradition of presenting ''langa voni'' begins with the girl's first naming ceremony called [[Naming ceremony|Namakaran]] and her first rice feeding ceremony called [[Annaprashana]]. She receives her last one at her coming of age ceremony. ''Langa voni'' is traditional clothing for unmarried girls in southern India.

[[File:Kangra Painting.jpg|thumb|upright|Pahari painting depicting women in Luanchari. ca.1760]]

==Luanchari==
{{Main|Luanchari}}
Luanchari ([[Hindi language|Hindi]]: लुआंचणी) is a full-dress garment. The luanchari is made up of two parts. The upper part is called choli, and is made of the same fabric as of the lehanga, but it is not uncommon to find the two pieces of the garment in different colours. The choli is stitched to the lehanga, to make a one-piece luanchari. This is commonly worn by the women in Pahari miniatures, and is quite similar to lehanga.<ref name="books.google.co.in">{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=JFPnh9B5zncC&q=Launchari&pg=PA274 |title=Textiles, Costumes, and Ornaments of the Western Himalaya – Omacanda Hāṇḍā – Google Books |isbn=9788173870767 |access-date=2013-10-25|last1=Handa |first1=O. C. |last2=Hāṇḍā |first2=Omacanda |year=1998 }}</ref> It may take over 21 yards of cloth to make a complete luanchari.<ref>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7JmR6_-oMjcC&q=Luanchari&pg=PA129 |title=Life Style, Indian Tribes: Locational Practice – Shiva Tosh Das – Google Books |isbn=9788121200585 |access-date=2013-10-25|last1=Das |first1=Shiva Tosh |year=1987 }}</ref> It is a traditional garment worn by Gaddis of [[Himachal Pradesh]].<ref name="books.google.co.in"/>

==Images==
<gallery mode="packed" heights="125">
File:Gagra choli.jpg|Little girl dressed in gagra choli during [[Garba (dance)|garba]] in [[Vadodara]]
File:Ghagra Choli1.jpg|Woman in gagra choli
File:Ghagra Choli3.jpg|Woman in gagra choli
File:Gaddi Couple 1940.jpg|Himachal woman in luanchari
File:Gota Embroidery.jpg|Bridal gagra with [[Gota (embroidery)|gota]] embroidery
File:Delhi Wedding.jpg|Women dancing in gagra choli during wedding in Delhi
File:Krishnacart.jpg|Plaque depicting ancient form of long choli and gagra worn during [[Gupta Empire]]
File:Pink dress with embroidery, Crafts Museum, New Delhi.jpg|Gagra with ''badla'' embroidery from 1800s
File:Bride entering the hall - Indian Hindu Wedding.jpg|Bride in ghagra choli or lehenga
File:Punjabi Traditional Fashion - Cultural Night - Wiki Conference India - CGC - Mohali 2016-08-05 7349.JPG|Punjabi ghagra
File:Priyanka on the ramp for Mijwan fashion show.jpg|[[Priyanka Chopra]] in a modern ghagra choli

File:Nepali woman 1900.jpg|[[Khas people|Khas]] Nepali women in gagra choli also called Gunyu choli or Faria.
</gallery>

== See also ==
{{Commons category}}
* [[Langa voni]]
* [[Gharara]]
* [[Sari]]
* [[Shalwar kameez]]
*[[Kurta]]

==References==
{{Reflist|2}}

==External links==
* [http://www.ghagra.org.in/index.html Information on ghagra choli]

{{Clothing in South Asia}}

[[Category:Indian clothing]]
[[Category:Saris]]
[[Category:History of fashion]]
[[Category:Gujarati culture]]
[[Category:Rajasthani clothing]]

Ghagra choli - Revision history

>Qwerfjkl at 21:21, 4 July 2021