>Monkbot at 15:07, 24 January 2021

2021-01-24T15:07:21Z

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{{short description|Indian mountain climber}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=July 2017}}
{{Use Indian English|date=July 2017}}
{{Infobox person
| name = Harish Kapadia
| image =Harish Kapadia Indian Explorer and Mountaineer.jpg
| caption = Harish Kapadia, explorer and mountaineer
| image_size = 250px
| birth_date = {{Birth date and age|1945|7|11|df=yes}}
| death_date =
| birth_place = [[Mumbai]], India
| death_place =
| spouse = Geeta Kapadia
| parents =
| children = Sonam Kapadia (son)<br />[[Nawang Kapadia|(Deceased) Lt. Nawang Kapadia]] (son)
}}
'''Harish Kapadia''' (born 11 July 1945) is a distinguished [[Himalayas|Himalayan]] [[mountaineer]], [[author]] and long-time editor of the ''[[Himalayan Journal]]'' from [[India]].<ref name=ITimes>{{Cite news |url=http://www.irishtimes.com/news/himalayan-climber-to-give-lecture-1.15670 |title=Himalayan climber to give lecture |work=The Irish Times |date=24 November 2011 |access-date=23 December 2016}}</ref> He has been awarded the Patron's Medal of the [[Royal Geographical Society]],<ref name=Tribune>{{Cite news |url=http://www.tribuneindia.com/2003/20030526/world.htm#4 |title=Kapadia gets Patron's Medal |work=The Tribune |date=25 May 2003 |access-date=23 December 2016}}</ref> the [[Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award|Life Time Achievement Award for Adventure]] by the [[President of India]] and the King Albert Mountain Award presented by The King Albert I Memorial Foundation. He has written numerous books and articles on the Indian Himalayas.<ref name=DNA>{{Cite news |url=http://www.dnaindia.com/mumbai/interview-meet-harish-kapadia-who-knows-the-himalayas-sahyadri-like-the-back-of-his-hand-1933148 |title=Meet Harish Kapadia, who knows the Himalayas, Sahyadri like the back of his hand |website=DNA India |date=11 December 2013 |access-date=22 December 2016}}</ref> Harish was awarded the [[Piolet d'Or|Piolets d'Or]] Asia Life Time Achievement Award in 2017 for his mountaineering and exploratory endeavours and he became the first and only Indian so far to ever receive this award.<ref>{{Cite news|title=Indian Mountaineer Harish Kapadia Wins Piolets D’Or Asia Lifetime Achievement Award|work=India.com|url=https://www.india.com/travel/articles/indian-mountaineer-harish-kapadia-wins-piolets-dor-asia-lifetime-achievement-award-3227649/}}</ref>

== Biography ==
He began climbing and trekking in the range around [[Mumbai]], the [[Western Ghats]]. His first visit to the Himalayas was almost 40 years ago{{When|date=February 2011}}. His main contribution to Himalayan climbing has been to explore unknown areas and, in number of cases, to open up climbing possibilities. Among his major ascents are Devtoli ({{convert|6,788|m}}), [[Bandarpunch]] West ({{convert|6,102|m}}), Parilungbi ({{convert|6,166|m}}) in 1995, and [[Lungser Kangri]] ({{convert|6,666|m}}), the highest peak of [[Rupshu]] in [[Ladakh]]. He led eight international joint expeditions,<ref name=ITimes/><ref name=Tribune/> five with [[British people|British]], two with [[French people|French]] and one with [[Japanese people|Japanese]] mountaineers, to high peaks, such as [[Rimo I]] ({{convert|7,385|m}}), Chong Kumdan Kangri I ({{convert|7,071|m}}), Sudarshan Parvat, Padmanabh ({{convert|7,030|m}}), and the [[Panch Chuli]] and Rangrik Rang groups.<ref name=Tribune/>

In 1974, he fell into a crevasse at {{convert|6,200|m}}, deep inside the formidable [[Nanda Devi]] Sanctuary.<ref name=ITimes/> He was carried by his companions for 13 days to the base camp where a [[helicopter]] rescued him. He was operated on for a dislocated hip-joint and had to spend two years walking on crutches, but that did not keep him out for too long and he has climbed for three [[decades]] after the injury.

Kapadia has a degree in commerce, law and management from [[University of Mumbai]] and he is a cloth merchant by profession. He has published twelve books. His ''Trek The Sahyadris'' has become a standard reference for all trekkers in the Western Ghats. His other books, ''Exploring the Hidden Himalaya'' (with Soli Mehta) and ''High Himalaya Unknown Valleys'' and ''Meeting The Mountains'', cover his various trips to the Himalayas, while ''Spiti Adventures in the Trans-Himalaya'' covers climbing and trekking in that region. He has been the editor of the ''Himalayan Journal'' from 1980 to 1986, and since 1990, bringing the journal to international standards and continuing it as a major authentic reference on the range.

Kapadia has been elected an honorary member of the (British) [[Alpine Club]]. He was a vice president of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (1997–1999). He was awarded the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) Gold Medal in 1993.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1993_files/AJ%201993%20342-348%20AC%20Notes.pdf |title=Alpine Club Notes |work=Alpine Journal |access-date=24 December 2016}}</ref> In 2003, the Queen approved the award of the [[Gold Medal (RGS)|Patron's Gold Medal]] of the [[Royal Geographical Society]] to him. He was also awarded the [[Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award]] 2003 for lifetime achievement. He has been invited to many countries to lecture on his Himalayan exploits, and is a member of several organisations. He is married and lives in Bombay.

His son, [[Lieutenant]] [[Nawang Kapadia]], who was commissioned on 2 September 2000 in the Fourth Battalion the Third [[Gorkha regiments (India)|Gorkha]] Rifles,<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.nawang.com/ |title=Lt. Nawang Kapadia |access-date=23 December 2016}}</ref> died while fighting [[Pakistan and state-sponsored terrorism|Pakistan-based terrorists]] in the jungles of Rajwar in the Kupwara district of [[Srinagar]] on 11 November 2000.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.livemint.com/Leisure/3QfYqLadggrbnrn41H0mAJ/The-Nanda-Devi-mystery.html |title=The Nanda Devi mystery |date=18 April 2015 |work=Live Mint |publisher=HT Media |access-date=23 December 2016}}</ref> Since then, Kapadia has lectured about this conflict, particularly in the [[Siachen Glacier]]. He has been discussing a proposal for a peace park in the Siachen glacier region and cleaning up the environmental damage there.<ref name=ITimes/><ref name=DNA/><ref>{{Cite news |url=http://www.rediff.com/news/2002/aug/16spec.htm |title=In memory of an army officer slain in battle |website=Rediff |date=16 August 2002 |access-date=22 December 2016}}</ref>

Kapadia has donated a substantial number of photographs and maps to the [[American Alpine Club]] and to the [[Swiss National Museum]], which are setting up the [[Lt. Nawang Kapadia Collection]]. This is in addition to the Lt. Nawang Kapadia Library already in existence at the [[Himalayan Club]].

His book, ''Meeting The Mountains'' can be seen while standing in the queue at Disney's Animal Kingdom for ''Expedition Everest''. While passing along the line, one passes by many glass cases displaying the history of mountains and, at one point, there is what is supposed to look like an office with his book on the top bookshelf.

Due his long work as editor of the ''Himalayan Journal'', Kapadia became an important chronicler of mountaineering.<ref>Eberhard Jurgalski (2008). [http://www.8000ers.com/cms/en/history-of-chronicles-mainmenu-183.html "History of chronicles"], ''8000ers.com''. Retrieved 9 May 2015.</ref>

On 3 November 2017, in Seoul, South Korea, Kapadia was awarded the Piolets d'Or Asia Life Time Achievement Award. He is the first Indian to receive this prestigious award for his outstanding career in mountaineering and exploration.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dreamwanderlust.com/news/first-indian-gets-piolets-dor-harish-kapadia-does-country-proud|title=First Indian gets Piolets d'Or; Harish Kapadia does country proud|date=3 November 2017|work=Dream Wanderlust}}</ref>

In appreciation of his authorship of many books and his stewardship of the ''Himalayan Journal'' as an editor for 35 years, he was further honoured by the Korea Alpen Book Club and made an honorary member.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dreamwanderlust.com/news/rare-honour-for-veteran-indian-climber|title=Rare honour for veteran Indian climber|date=10 November 2017|work=Dream Wanderlust}}</ref>

== Notable climbs ==
Total peaks climbed: 33

First ascents: 21

*Jatropani ({{convert|4,071|m}})
*Ikulari ({{convert|6,059|m}})
*Bethartoli Himal South ({{convert|6,318|m}}) (Garhwal)
*Shiti Dhar ({{convert|5,290|m}}) (H.P.)
*Devtoli* ({{convert|6,788|m}})<ref name=Tribune/>
*Kalabaland Dhura* ({{convert|6,105|m}})
*Koteshwar II* ({{convert|5,690|m}})(Garhwal)
*Yada ({{convert|4,115|m}})
*Jalsu ({{convert|4,298|m}}) (H.P.)
*Lagma* ({{convert|5,761|m}}),
*Zumto* (c.{{convert|5,800|m}})
*Tserip* (c.{{convert|5,980|m}})
*Kawu* (c.{{convert|5,910|m}}) (Spiti)
*Kalanag ({{convert|6,387|m}})
*Bandarpunch West* ({{convert|6,102|m}}) (Garhwal)<ref name=Tribune/>
*Parilungbi ({{convert|6,166|m}})<ref name=Tribune/>
*Runse* ({{convert|6,175|m}})
*Gyadung* ({{convert|6,160|m}})
*Geling* (c. {{convert|6,100|m}})
*Lama Kyent* (c.{{convert|6,040|m}})
*Labrang* (c.{{convert|5,900|m}}) (Spiti)
*Nandi* ({{convert|5,795|m}}) (Garhwal)
*Laknis* ({{convert|6,235|m}})
*Chogam ({{convert|6,250|m}})
*Skyang ({{convert|5,770|m}}) (East Karakoram)
*Panchali Chuli* ({{convert|5,220|m}})
*Draupadi* ({{convert|5,250|m}}) (Kumaon)
*Khamengar ({{convert|5,760|m}}) (Spiti)
*Mangla* ({{convert|5,800|m}})
*Kunda*({{convert|5,240|m}}) (Kinnaur)
*Lungser Kangri* ({{convert|6,666|m}})<ref name=Tribune/><ref>Harish Kapadia (1999). ''Across Peaks & Passes in Ladakh, Zanskar & East Karakoram''. New Delhi: Indus Publishing Company. p. 73-86.</ref>
*Chhamser Kangri({{convert|6,622|m}}) (Ladakh)
*Bhagat Peak* ({{convert|5,650|m}}) (Garhwal)

== Bibliography ==
*''Exploring the Hidden Himalaya''
*''Trek the [[Sahyadris]]''
*''High Himalaya Unknown Valleys''
*''[[Spiti]] Adventures in the Trans-Himalaya''
*''Meeting The Mountains''
*''Across Peaks and Passes in [[Kumaon division|Kumaun]]''
*''Across Peaks and Passes in [[Garhwal Division|Garhwal]]''
*''Across Peaks and Passes in [[Himachal Pradesh]]''
*''Across Peaks and Passes in [[Ladakh]], [[Zanskar]] and East [[Karakoram]]''
*''Across Peaks and Passes in [[Darjeeling]] and [[Sikkim]] Himalaya''
*''A Passage to Himalaya'' (editor)
*''Trekking and Climbing in Indian Himalaya''

== References ==
{{Reflist}}

== External links ==
* [http://harish.nawang.com Harish Kapadia]
* [http://www.himalayanclub.org/pdfs/elv2.pdf Citation for lifetime achievement award] pdf
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20050902173955/http://himalassociation.org/kimff/kimff_events_harish.htm More about Harish Kapadia from Himal Association]
* [http://www.nawang.com Lt. Nawang Kapadia]
* [http://www.himalayanclub.org Lt. Nawang Kapadia Map Library]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20110714160743/http://harish.nawang.com/explorations.htm Major explorations]

{{Authority control}}
{{Indian mountaineers}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Kapadia, Harish}}
[[Category:1945 births]]
[[Category:Living people]]
[[Category:Indian mountain climbers]]
[[Category:Historians of mountaineering]]
[[Category:People from Pithoragarh]]
[[Category:University of Mumbai alumni]]
[[Category:Recipients of the Royal Geographical Society Gold Medal]]
[[Category:Recipients of the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award]]

Harish Kapadia - Revision history

>Monkbot at 15:07, 24 January 2021