CleanupBot at 18:16, 1 January 2022

2022-01-01T18:16:09Z

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{{short description|Type of shawl}}
{{More references|date=October 2015}}

[[File:Jamawar Shawl.tif|thumb|A Jamawar shawl from the Mughal era]]

'''Jamawar''', or ''grown piece'', is a special type of shawl made in [[Kashmir]].<ref>{{Cite book|last=Tortora|first=Phyllis G.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&newbks=0&printsec=frontcover&pg=PA313&dq=Jamawar,+or+grown+piece,+is+a+special+type+of+shawl+made+in+Kashmir.&hl=en|title=The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles|last2=Johnson|first2=Ingrid|date=2013-09-17|publisher=A&C Black|isbn=978-1-60901-535-0|pages=313|language=en}}</ref>"Jama" means robe and "war/var" is chest and metaphorically body.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|title=WHAT IS KANI PASHMINA JAMAWAR – Ezna Ventures|url=http://www.eznaweaves.com/what-is-kani-pashmina-jamawar/|access-date=2020-12-18|language=en-US}}</ref> {{Better source needed|date=December 2020}}The best quality of Jamawar is built with [[Pashmina]]. The brocaded parts are woven in similar threads of silk or polyester. Most of the designs seen today are floral, with the kairy as the predominant motif. Historically handmade items, some shawls took a couple of decades to complete; consequently, original Jamawar shawls are highly valued. Modern, machine-made Jamawar prints, produced in cities such as Kashmir and other parts of [[Himachal Pradesh]] cost less to buy but handmade Jamawar are very expensive.<ref name=":0" /><ref>{{Cite web|title=The Jamawar – A Dying Art|url=https://www.newslaundry.com/2015/01/23/the-jamawar-a-dying-art|access-date=2020-12-18|website=Newslaundry}}</ref>

Traders introduced this Chinese silk cloth to India, mainly from [[Samarkand]] and [[Bukhara]] and it gained immense popularity among the royalty and the aristocracy. Kings and nobles bought the woven fabric by the yard, wearing it as a gown or using it as a wrap or shawl. Jamawar weaving centres in India developed in the holy cities and the trade centres. The most well known Jamawar weaving centre is [[Kashmir]] and Punjab in [[India]].<ref>{{Cite web|last=Service|first=Tribune News|title=The lost story of Made in Amritsar|url=https://www.tribuneindia.com/news/amritsar/the-lost-story-of-made-in-amritsar-73271|access-date=2020-12-18|website=Tribuneindia News Service|language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|date=2020-08-05|title=Jamawar|url=https://isha.sadhguru.org/in/en/outreach/save-the-weave/indian-weaves/jamawar|access-date=2020-12-18|website=Isha Sadhguru|language=en}}</ref>

Due to its rich and fine raw materials, the rich and powerful merchants used Jamawar and noblemen of the time, who could not only afford it but could even commission the weavers to make the fabric for them, as in the case of the Mughals. [[Emperor Akbar]] was one of its greatest patrons. He brought many weavers from East [[Turkestan]] to [[Kashmir]].<ref>{{Cite book|last=Saraf|first=D. N.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=vQShV9jNzIUC&newbks=0&printsec=frontcover&pg=PA62&dq=Akbar+brought+many+weavers+from+East+Turkestan+to+Kashmir.&hl=en|title=Arts and Crafts, Jammu and Kashmir: Land, People, Culture|date=1987|publisher=Abhinav Publications|isbn=978-81-7017-204-8|pages=62|language=en}}</ref>{{Better source needed|date=December 2020}}

==References==
{{Reflist}}

{{Clothing in South Asia}}

[[Category:Indian clothing]]
[[Category:Culture of Jammu and Kashmir]]
[[Category:Shawls and wraps]]
[[Category:Indian shawls and wraps]]
{{clothing-stub}}

Jamawar - Revision history

CleanupBot at 18:16, 1 January 2022