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{{Use dmy dates|date=May 2018}}
{{Use Indian English|date=May 2018}}

The people of [[Jammu]] have the following traditional clothing:

==Ghagra choli==
It is traditional for women to wear [[ghagra choli]] and the scarf ensemble which was also popular in the [[Punjab]].<ref name=autogenerated2>{{cite book |last1=Kumar |first1=Raj |title=Paintings and Lifestyles of Jammu Region: From 17th to 19th Century A.D. |date=10 October 2023 |publisher=Gyan Publishing House |isbn=978-81-7835-577-1 |page=352 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=f-1XyQ2eIG8C&pg=PA352 |language=en}}</ref> It is still traditional for women to wear the kurta with a lehnga,<ref>{{cite book |last1=Singh |first1=K. S. |last2=Pandita |first2=K. N. |last3=Charak |first3=Sukh Dev Singh |last4=Rizvi |first4=Baqr Raza |title=Anthropological Survey of India |date=2003 |location=Jammu & Kashmir |isbn=978-81-7304-118-1 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=9FigAAAAMAAJ |language=en}}</ref> as an alternative to the [[suthan]] and [[kurta]].

==Peshwaj==
The traditional ghagra choli was then replaced by the [[peshwaj]] for women which flows to the ankles which would sometimes be worn with a suthan (very loose pants with many folds).<ref name="autogenerated1">{{cite book|author1=Handa, O.|title= Textiles, Costumes and Ornaments of the Western Himalayas}}</ref> The men would wear the Jamma (Mughal style shirt) with the suthan.

==Suthan and kurta==
[[File:Dogri play Bawa Jitto directed by Balwant Thakur Produced in 1986 and still going strong.jpg|thumb|Men and boys wearing a variation of the suthan and Dogri kurta]]
The traditional dress for men and women is to wear the suthan and kurta but the styles are gender-specific.

==Dogri suthan==
The traditional Dogri suthan is wide at the top, roomy at the legs and has numerous pleats at the ankles.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Kumar |first1=Raj |title=Paintings and Lifestyles of Jammu Region: From 17th to 19th Century A.D. |date=2006 |publisher=Gyan Publishing House |isbn=978-81-7835-577-1 |page=163 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=f-1XyQ2eIG8C&pg=PA352 |language=en}}</ref>

==Modern suthan==
[[File:Men of the British Punjab army in suthans 1895 Punjab Hills. Churidar suthan.jpg|thumb|Men of the [[British Indian Army|Indian Army]] in Punjabi churidar suthans (1895 Punjab Hills)<ref>Gore, Frederick St. John. (1895) Lights & Shades of Hill Life in the Afghan and Hindu Highlands of Punjab. A contrast ... With maps and illustrations, etc [http://access.bl.uk/item/pdf/lsidyv39189ee9]</ref>]]
However, the modern style of suthan worn in Jammu is a remnant of the tight suthan which was once popular throughout the [[Punjab region]]. It is very loose at the top but is very tight from the knees to the ankles.<ref>Letters from India and Kashmir (1874) [https://books.google.com/books?id=1s5AAAAAIAAJ&q=north+of+delhi]</ref><ref>Kumar Suresh Singh, K. N. Pandita, Sukh Dev Singh Charak, Baqr Raza Rizvi. Anthropological Survey of India (2003) Jammu and Kashmir [https://books.google.com/books?id=9FigAAAAMAAJ&q=suthan]</ref><ref>Sukh Dev Singh Charak (1983) the Jammu Kingdom, Part 1[https://books.google.com/books?id=YSEeAAAAMAAJ&q=punjabi+suthan]</ref>
However, the style is now more popular in Jammu<ref>[[Prithivi Nath Kaul Bamzai|Bamzai, P. N. K.]] (1994) Culture and Political History of Kashmir, Volume [https://books.google.com/books?id=1eMfzTBcXcYC&dq=tight+Dogri+pyjamas&pg=PA14]</ref> and [[Himachal Pradesh]]<ref>Kumar Suresh Singh, B. R. Sharma, Anthropological Survey of India, A. R. Sankhyan (1996) Himachal Pradesh [https://books.google.com/books?id=XEduAAAAMAAJ&q=suthan+himachal+pradesh]</ref> as the tight suthan is useful in the hills.<ref>Charak, Sukh Dev Singh (1983) Himachal Pradesh, Volume 4 [https://books.google.com/books?id=UU1DAAAAYAAJ&q=dogri+punjabi+pyjama]</ref> When worn by men, the drawers are called ghuttana and when worn by women, the suthan (in a variety of colours).<ref>Saraf, D.N. (1987) Arts and Crafts, Jammu and Kashmir: Land, People, Culture [https://books.google.com/books?id=r72ywi3YYMAC&dq=Arts+and+Crafts%2C+Jammu+and+Kashmir%3A+Land%2C+People%2C+Culture+dogri+suthan&pg=PA37]</ref> When the tight part of the suthan, up to the knees, has multiple close fitting folds, the suthan is referred to as Dogri pants<ref>Banerjee, Sanhati. The Rockstar Dhoti (15.01.2012)[http://www.planyourwedding.co.in/hyderabad/fashion/the-rockstar-dhoti.aspx] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130603074841/http://www.planyourwedding.co.in/hyderabad/fashion/the-rockstar-dhoti.aspx |date=3 June 2013 }}</ref> or Dogri suthan,<ref>Kumar, Ritu (2006) Costumes and textiles of royal India[https://books.google.com/books?id=qYK1AAAAIAAJ&q=dogri+churidar]</ref> in [[Jammu Division|Jammu]] and churidar suthan in [[Himachal Pradesh]]. It is also worn in the hilly area of the [[Punjab region]].<ref>GORE, Frederick St. John. (1895) Lights & Shades of Hill Life in the Afghan and Hindu Highlands of the Punjab. A contrast ... With maps and illustrations, etc [http://access.bl.uk/item/pdf/lsidyv39189ee9] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210224031950/http://access.bl.uk/item/pdf/lsidyv39189ee9 |date=24 February 2021 }}</ref> In [[Jammu Division|Jammu]], members of all communities wear the suthan.<ref>Sarfi, Maqsooda (2004 Japan From The Eyes Of An Indian Girl [https://books.google.com/books?id=eR5xAAAAMAAJ&q=dogri+suthana]</ref>

The traditional Dogri [[kurta]] for men is open at the front and flares out from the waist to the knees. The kurta for women tends to be long and cut straight, a style adopted from neighbouring Punjab,<ref name="autogenerated2"/> as local culture shares an affinity with the [[Punjab region]],<ref>Betts, Vanessa and McCulloch, Victoria (2014) Indian Himalaya Footprint Handbook: Includes Corbett National Park, Darjeeling, Leh, Sikkim [https://books.google.com/books?id=77D8AgAAQBAJ&dq=dogra++court+dress&pg=PA223]</ref> especially the southern area.<ref>Biswas, Arabinda 1985) Indian Costumes [a dress of the Dogras in Jammu is greatly influenced by the sartorial ensemble of the State of Punjab.[https://books.google.com/books?id=vdyBAAAAMAAJ&q=dogri+suthan+]</ref>

==Churidar pajama==
The [[churidar]] pajama, also called churidar suthan, which forms part of the traditional attire of men and women in [[Punjab region|Punjab]]<ref>Kehal, Harkesh Singh. Alop ho riha Punjabi Virsa. Unistar Books PVT Ltd {{ISBN|978-93-5017-532-3}}</ref> is a combination of the tight suthan of the [[Punjab region]] and the traditional Dogri loose suthan. Accordingly, the churidar pajama is believed to be derived from the suthan. The [[Churidar]]<ref name="autogenerated2"/> pajama is popular all over the sub-continent and was developed in the [[Punjab region]], and is associated with the Punjab.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Shukla |first1=Pravina |title=The Grace of Four Moons: Dress, Adornment, and the Art of the Body in Modern India |date=2013 |publisher=Indiana University Press |isbn=978-0-253-34911-8 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=xyjaAAAAMAAJ |language=en}}</ref><ref name=autogenerated2/>

== See also ==
* [[Punjabi clothing]]

==References==
{{reflist}}

[[Category:Culture of Jammu and Kashmir]]
[[Category:Indian clothing]]
[[Category:Indian fashion]]

Jammu dress - Revision history

CleanupBot at 07:20, 22 March 2026