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'''Khandua''' (Also '''Maniabandi''' or '''Kataki''') is a traditional "bandha" or [[ikat]] [[sari]] produced from [[Odisha]]
<ref name="Mohanty2003">{{cite book|author=P. K. Mohanty|title=Tropical Wild Silk Cocoons Of India|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=rPV2YA3L3a0C&pg=PA25|access-date=27 June 2012|date=1 January 2003|publisher=Daya Publishing House|isbn=978-81-7035-298-3|pages=25–}}</ref><ref name="Rutnagur1999">{{cite book|author=Sorabji M. Rutnagur|title=The Indian textile journal|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=UDJNAAAAYAAJ|access-date=27 June 2012|year=1999|publisher=Business Press.}}</ref><ref name="LyntonSingh1995">{{cite book|author1=Linda Lynton|author2=Sanjay K. Singh|title=The sari: styles, patterns, history, techniques|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=lqHpAAAAMAAJ|access-date=27 June 2012|date=October 1995|publisher=H.N. Abrams|isbn=978-0-8109-4461-9}}</ref><ref name="Desai1988">{{cite book|author=Chelna Desai|title=Ikat textiles of India|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=TJArAAAAMAAJ|access-date=27 June 2012|date=1 December 1988|publisher=Chronicle Books|isbn=978-0-87701-548-2}}</ref><ref name="FischerMahapatra1980">{{cite book|author1=Eberhard Fischer|author2=Sitakant Mahapatra|author3=Dinanath Pathy|title=Orissa|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=NzvrAAAAMAAJ|access-date=27 June 2012|year=1980|publisher=Museum Rietberg}}</ref>
worn by women during wedding
<ref name="Hatanaka1996">{{cite book|author=Kōkyō Hatanaka|title=Textile arts of India: Kokyo Hatanaka collection|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=W1dQAAAAMAAJ|access-date=27 June 2012|year=1996|publisher=Chronicle Books|isbn=978-0-8118-1084-5}}</ref><ref name="RanjanRanjan2009">{{cite book|author1=Aditi Ranjan|author2=M. P. Ranjan|title=Handmade in India: A Geographic Encyclopedia of India Handicrafts|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ixhJAQAAIAAJ|access-date=27 June 2012|date=29 September 2009|publisher=Abbeville Press|isbn=978-0-7892-1047-0}}</ref>
and a special type of which is worn by [[Jagannath]].
The clothes contain texts of [[Gita Govinda]] on them.
<ref name="BaselNabholz-Kartaschoff1986">{{cite book|author1=Museum für Völkerkunde und Schweizerisches Museum für Volkskunde Basel|author2=Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff|title=Golden sprays and scarlet flowers: traditional Indian textiles from the Museum of Ethnography, Basel, Switzerland|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=XzbrAAAAMAAJ|access-date=27 June 2012|year=1986|publisher=Shikosha Pub. Co.}}</ref>
''Kenduli Khandua'', a special form of Khandua of 12 ft and 2 ''kani'' (each ''kani'' measures the length of a hand) is offered to [[Jagannath]] to wear as khandua with stanzas and illustration from Gita Govinda.
<ref name="Mohanty2009">{{cite book|author=Jagannath Mohanty|title=Encyclopaedia of Education, Culture and Children's Literature: v. 3. Indian culture and education|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=3T2Ph_SmjtoC&pg=PA31|access-date=27 June 2012|year=2009|publisher=Deep & Deep Publications|isbn=978-81-8450-150-6|pages=31–}}</ref><ref name="Journal of social sciences">{{cite book|title=Journal of social sciences|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ykBNAQAAIAAJ|access-date=27 June 2012|date=January 2004|publisher=Kamla-Raj Enterprises}}</ref>

== Etymology ==
The word ''Khandua'' in [[Odia language|Odia]] translates to the cloth worn in the lower half of the body. Traditionally Kentuli Khandua is offered to Jagannath as lower cloth. Due to the place of origin is Cuttak and Maniabandha, the other two names ''Kataki'' and ''Maniabandhi'' are originated.<ref name="Journal of social sciences"/>

== History ==
Weaver communities of Maniabandha and Nuapatana<ref name="Journal of social sciences"/><ref name="Arts of Asia">{{cite book|title=Arts of Asia|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2HLrAAAAMAAJ|access-date=27 June 2012|date=July 1982|publisher=Arts of Asia Publications.}}</ref> of [[Cuttack district|Cuttack]] traditionally weave this kind of pata. During the rule of Gajapatis Sarees are made and transported to [[Jagannath Temple]]. Nilakantha Deva, the king of [[Badakhemundi estate|Badakhemundi]] was offered ''khandua sari'' made of one piece of khandua silk called caukandika.<ref name="Kulke1993">{{cite book|author=Hermann Kulke|title=Kings and cults: state formation and legitimation in India and Southeast Asia|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=nAYFAQAAIAAJ|access-date=27 June 2012|year=1993|publisher=Manohar Publishers & Distributors}}</ref><ref name="Bakker1992">{{cite book|author=Hans Bakker|title=The Sacred centre as the focus of political interest: proceedings of the symposium held on the occasion of the 375th anniversary of the University of Groningen, 5–8 March 1989|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=xwXXAAAAMAAJ|access-date=27 June 2012|year=1992|publisher=E. Forsten|isbn=978-90-6980-036-3}}</ref>

== Color and Design ==
Khandua is traditionally red or orange in color. The red color is prepared naturally from the ''[[shorea robusta]]'' (sal tree).
<ref name="RanjanRanjan2009"/>
The design motif has an auspicious elephant that represents [[Buddha]] surrounded by trailing vine with peacocks in it, a large many petaled flower, a unique Orissan animal called [[Nabagunjara]], a [[deula]] [[kumbha]]. The elephant in Khandua ikat from Nuapatana usually varies from elephant motives in ikat from [[Sambalpuri sari]] as well as ikat from other parts of Orissa.<ref name="FemeniasArt1984">{{cite book|author1=Blenda Femenias|author2=Elvehjem Museum of Art|title=Two faces of South Asian art: textiles and paintings|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=XDQ3LStqTesC|access-date=27 June 2012|date=1 December 1984|publisher=Elvehjem Museum of Art}}</ref>
Khandua has plain borders in contrary to borders with motifs in case of the other ikat of Orissa.
<ref name="ChishtiSingh1989">{{cite book|author1=Ṛta Kapur Chishti|author2=Martand Singh|author3=Amba Sanyal|title=Saris of India: Madhya Pradesh|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=oHGBAAAAMAAJ|access-date=27 June 2012|year=1989|publisher=Wiley Eastern & Amr Vastra Kosh|isbn=978-81-224-0187-5}}</ref>

== References ==
{{Reflist|30em}}

{{Saree}}
{{Odia culture}}
{{Odisha}}

[[Category:Geographical indications in Odisha]]
[[Category:Saris]]
[[Category:Dresses]]
[[Category:Indian clothing]]
[[Category:Odia culture]]

Khandua - Revision history

->Lancepark at 12:35, 8 July 2021