imported>SierraTangoCharlie1 at 14:16, 24 July 2021

2021-07-24T14:16:04Z

New page

{{short description|Simple loose clothing item to wrap around in Punjab India region}}
[[File:Khes.jpg|alt=A stout cloth used for bedding and wrap (shawl)|thumb|Khes (a kind of thin [[blanket]], it is a [[Loom|handoom]] [[damask]] cloth) used in [[bedding]] in [[Pakistan]] and [[Punjab, India]].]]
'''''Khes''''' ({{lang-pa|[[Shahmukhi]]:کھیس, [[Gurmukhi]]:ਖੇਸ੍}}) ({{IPA-pa|kʰeːsː}}) is a thin cotton blanket cloth of the [[Indian subcontinent]]; it is a [[damask]] cloth used for blankets and winter wraps.<ref name=":6">{{Cite book|last1=Tortora|first1=Phyllis G.|title=The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles|last2=Johnson|first2=Ingrid|date=2013-09-17|publisher=[[A&C Black]]|isbn=978-1-60901-535-0|pages=327, 357, 361}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last=Mukharji|first=T. N.|url=http://archive.org/details/artmanufactureso00mukhuoft|title=Art-manufactures of India|date=1888|publisher=Calcutta|others=Gerstein - University of Toronto|pages=323}}</ref> Khes is generally [[Loom|hand]]-[[Woven fabric|woven]] with coarse [[cotton]] [[yarn]]s. Khes as a garment is a simple [[clothing]] item to wear loosely to cover upper body parts by men in [[Pakistan]] and [[Punjab, India]]. Khes is an important cloth of [[Punjab|Punjab region]],<ref name="Tartan">{{Cite web|title=The Lost Tartan Khes of India – Global InCH- International Journal of Intangible Cultural Heritage|url=https://globalinch.org/article/the-lost-tartan-khes-of-india/|access-date=2020-11-30}}</ref> a region which is famous for its production and historically has been known for not only the production of Khes but also many other coarse cotton textiles, especially in the 19th and 20th centuries.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Parshad|first=Gopal|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=H_nsAAAAMAAJ|title=Industrial Development in Northern India: A Study of Delhi, Punjab and Haryana, 1858-1918|date=2007|publisher=National Book Organisation|isbn=978-81-87521-20-4}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last=Punjab (India)|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ZzZuAAAAMAAJ|title=Punjab State Gazetteer|date=2000|publisher=Revenue and Rehabilitation Department, Punjab|pages=299, 566|language=en}}</ref> Khes is a [[comfort object]] used in [[bedding]], and also usable as a [[Linens|cover]].<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=A. BISWAS|url=http://archive.org/details/INDIANCOSTUMES|title=Indian Costumes}}</ref> <ref name=":0">{{Cite book|last=Baden-Powell|first=Baden Henry|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=gg_JAAAAMAAJ&q=Khes+in+punjab&pg=PA22|title=Hand-book of the Manufactures & Arts of the Punjab: With a Combined Glossary & Index of Vernacular Trades & Technical Terms ... Forming Vol. Ii to the "Hand-book of the Economic Products of the Punjab" Prepared Under the Orders of Government|date=1872|publisher=Punjab printing Company|pages=6, 16,22}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last=Rutnagur|first=Sorabji M.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-sROAAAAYAAJ&q=khes+in+punjab|title=The Indian Textile Journal|date=1984|publisher=[[Electronics World|Business Press]]|pages=139}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last1=Industries|first1=Pakistan Ministry of|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=8ldQAAAAMAAJ&q=khes+in+punjab|title=Threadlines Pakistan|last2=Yacopino|first2=Feliccia|date=1977|publisher=Ministry of Industries, Government of Pakistan}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last1=Askari|first1=Nasreen|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=wQJKAQAAIAAJ&q=punjabi+Khes|title=Colours of the Indus: Costume and Textiles of Pakistan|last2=Crill|first2=Rosemary|last3=Museum|first3=Victoria and Albert|date=1997|publisher=M. Holberton|isbn=978-1-85894-044-1|pages=12, 88, 142}}</ref><ref>{{cite EB1911|wstitle=India |volume= 14 | pages = 375 to 421 |short=x}}</ref>

== Khes weaving ==
=== Weave ===
''Khes'' is a thick woven cloth made on [[Loom|a handloom]]. Khes [[weaving]] was a traditional [[Textile arts|textile art]] associated with [[Rural area|rural]] Punjab. The craft of khes-weaving had cultural significance in rural areas.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Gupta|first=Suchitra|date=1973|title=THE BRITISH IMPACT ON THE INDIGENOUS COTTON TEXTILE INDUSTRY OF THE PUNJAB 1875 to 1885|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/44138701|journal=Proceedings of the Indian History Congress|volume=34|pages=122–128|jstor=44138701|issn=2249-1937}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=The Khes of Punjab|url=https://gaatha.com/the-khes-of-punjab/|access-date=2020-12-05|language=en-US}}</ref> Women in villages used to weave khes.<ref>{{Cite book|last1=Askari|first1=Nasreen|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=jWRQAAAAMAAJ&q=in+the+villages+of+Punjab+have+woven+the+khes|title=Colours of the Indus: Costume and Textiles of Pakistan|last2=Crill|first2=Rosemary|date=1997|publisher=M. Holberton|isbn=978-1-85894-045-8|pages=88}}</ref>{{clarify|date=December 2020|reason=Is this meant to say that the work was primarily done by women? Regardless, this tiny sentence is a bit of a non seqitur at present.}}

Spans of khes were traditionally woven in pairs and then stitched together.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2oHWAAAAMAAJ&q=in+the+villages+of+Punjab+have+woven+the+khes|title=Arts and Crafts of Pakistan|date=1994|publisher=Export Promotion Bureau, Government of Pakistan|pages=47}}</ref> Khes pieces from the town of [[Rampur, Uttar Pradesh]], were larger and available in sizes up to 6 by 9 feet (2.75 by 1.8 m).<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|last=Pradesh (India)|first=Uttar|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=GzNuAAAAMAAJ&q=RAMPUR+KHES|title=Uttar Pradesh District Gazetteers: Allahabad|date=1959|publisher=Government of Uttar Pradesh|pages=133}}</ref>

''Khesi'' <ref>{{Cite web|date=2015-05-03|title=Punjabi Dressing {{!}} Coloursofpunjab|url=http://www.coloursofpunjab.com/punjabipedia/punjabi-culture/punjabi-dressing|access-date=2020-12-08|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150503141448/http://www.coloursofpunjab.com/punjabipedia/punjabi-culture/punjabi-dressing|archive-date=2015-05-03}}</ref>is a wider variant of khes, for use in making robes as robes and sheets.<ref name=":6" />

=== Patterns ===
Most khes were made of cotton, but there were some varieties of cotton and silk also.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Askari|first=Nasreen|url=http://archive.org/details/uncutcloth0000aska|title=Uncut cloth|date=1999|publisher=London : Merrell Holberton|others=Internet Archive|isbn=978-1-85894-083-0|pages=84, 90}}</ref> <ref>{{Cite book|last1=Watt|first1=George Sir|url=http://archive.org/details/dli.granth.99909|title=Indian Art at Delhi, 1903; being the Official Catalogue of the Delhi Exhibition, 1902-1903|last2=Brown|first2=Percy (Illus )|date=1903|publisher=Superintendent of Government Printing (Calcutta)|pages=528}}</ref>Khes varieties were distinguished with different weave patterns and origin. Primarily Khes was plain or with geometrical designs, including [[Check (pattern)|check pattern]] (''charkhana'', chequered) and diamond patterns.<ref name=":0" /> The frequency of the checked style has led to khes sometimes being referred to as a type of [[tartan]] cloth<ref name="Tartan" /> (a term more often reserved for Scottish textiles). ''Dabba khes'' is a pattern with squares formed using dyed yarns.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=w-Y2AQAAMAAJ&q=Khes+manufacturing+punjab|title=Punjab District and State Gazetteers: Part A].|date=1916|publisher=Compiled and published under the authority of the Punjab government|pages=196}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zwpDAAAAYAAJ&q=history+of+Khes+use+in+Punjab|title=Proceedings - Punjab History Conference|date=2003|isbn=978-81-7380-885-2|pages=103}}</ref> Khes from [[Rampur State]] was famous for its superior-quality cotton and unique, interwoven patterns, often with gold thread and borders in various coloured yarns.<ref name=":2">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=25U3AQAAMAAJ&q=rampur+khes|title=Gazetteer of the Rampur State|date=1911|publisher=W.C. Abel, Government Press, United Provinces|pages=34}}</ref> <ref name=":3">{{Cite book|last=Mukhopādhyāẏa|first=Trailokyanātha|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=C3QTAAAAQAAJ&q=RAMPUR+KHES&pg=PA321|title=Art-manufactures of India: Specially Compiled for the Glasgow International Exhibition, 1888|date=1888|publisher=Superintendent of Government Printing|pages=321}}</ref> ''Khes patpatti'' had white and red check patterns, while ''khes tukridaar'' was the name for white and blue checks.<ref name=":5" /> ''Khesbaf'' weaving was the term for forming diagonal patterns.<ref name=":5">{{Cite book|last=Baden-Powell|first=Baden Henry|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=gg_JAAAAMAAJ&q=%E2%80%9C+gh%C3%A1ti+;+%E2%80%9D+from+jhind&pg=PA16|title=Hand-book of the Manufactures & Arts of the Punjab: With a Combined Glossary & Index of Vernacular Trades & Technical Terms ... Forming Vol. Ii to the "Hand-book of the Economic Products of the Punjab" Prepared Under the Orders of Government|date=1872|publisher=Punjab printing Company|pages=16}}</ref>

== Production ==

=== India ===
Production in India takes place in the [[Malwa]] region, and southern [[Punjab, India|Indian Punjab]].<ref>{{Cite book|last=Harris|first=Jennifer|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=lJb0DwAAQBAJ&q=khes+weaving+areas&pg=PA176|title=A Companion to Textile Culture|date=2020-09-16|publisher=[[John Wiley & Sons]]|isbn=978-1-118-76890-7|pages=176}}</ref> Others places in India included [[Rampur, Uttar Pradesh]];<ref name=":4" /> and [[Rampur State]].<ref name=":2" /><ref name=":3" />

=== Pakistan ===
Production in Pakistan takes place in [[Saraikistan|South Pakistani Punjab]] (in city of [[Bahawalpur]], [[Multan]] and in villages of the [[Cholistan Desert]])<ref>{{Cite book|last1=Claus|first1=Peter J.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ienxrTPHzzwC&q=Cholistan+Desert++khes+weaving&pg=PA394|title=South Asian Folklore: An Encyclopedia – Afghanistan, Bangladesh, India, Nepal, Pakistan, Sri Lanka|last2=Diamond|first2=Sarah|last3=Mills|first3=Margaret Ann|date=2003|publisher=[[Taylor & Francis]]|isbn=978-0-415-93919-5|pages=394}}</ref> and [[Sindh]] (in city of [[Naserpur]], [[Sehwan Sharif]] and [[Thatta]])<ref>{{Cite book|last1=Industries|first1=Pakistan Ministry of|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=8ldQAAAAMAAJ&q=naserpur+khes+weaving|title=Threadlines Pakistan|last2=Yacopino|first2=Feliccia|date=1977|publisher=[[Ministry of Industries]], [[Government of Pakistan]]|pages=60, 63}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2oHWAAAAMAAJ&q=Sehwan+khes+weaving|title=Arts and Crafts of Pakistan|date=1994|publisher=Export Promotion Bureau, Government of Pakistan|pages=40}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ZettAAAAMAAJ&q=Sehwan+khes+weaving|title=Sind Quarterly|date=1994|publisher=Shah Abdul Latif Cultural Society}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|url=https://www.google.com/books/edition/Insight_Guides_Pakistan_Travel_Guide_eBo/yyvJDwAAQBAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=Thatta+khes+weaving&pg=PT248&printsec=frontcover|title=Insight Guides Pakistan|date=2020|publisher=[[Apa Publications]]|isbn=9781839052583|editor-last=Fanthorpe|editor-first=Helen|edition=eBook|at="Textiles" section|access-date=4 December 2020|via=Google Books}}</ref>

== See also ==

* [[Punjabi clothing]]
* [[Dhurrie]]

== References ==
{{Reflist}}

== External links==

* https://ehmerapunjab.tumblr.com/post/15564980167/clothes-of-culture

{{Punjab, India}}
{{Punjab, Pakistan}}
{{Punjabi clothing}}
{{Bedding}}

[[Category:Blankets]]
[[Category:Rugs and carpets]]
[[Category:Shawls and wraps]]
[[Category:Bedding]]
[[Category:Textile arts of India]]
[[Category:Textile arts of Pakistan]]
[[Category:Punjabi words and phrases]]

Khes - Revision history

imported>SierraTangoCharlie1 at 14:16, 24 July 2021