>Bri at 03:05, 4 July 2021

2021-07-04T03:05:35Z

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{{short description|Traditional brocade from India}}
'''Kimkhwab''' (Kim-Khwab, kamkhāb, ḳamkhwāb, {{transl|par|ISO|Kimkhwab}},{{transl|sa|ISO|Hiranya}}, {{transl|sa|ISO|puspapata}}) is an ancient Indian brocade art of weaving ornate cloth with [[Goldwork (embroidery)|gold]], silver, and [[silk]] yarns. Kinkhwab is a silk damasked cloth with an art of zar-baft (making cloth of gold),<ref>{{Cite book|last=Steingass|first=F.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=DMbADwAAQBAJ&newbks=0&printsec=frontcover&dq&hl=en|title=Persian-English Dictionary: Including Arabic Words and Phrases in Persian Literature|date=2018-10-24|publisher=Routledge|year=|isbn=978-1-136-85241-1|location=|pages=614|language=en}}</ref> The weave produces beautiful floral designs that appear embroidered on the surface of the fabric. it was also known as puspapata or cloth with woven flowers.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|last=Qazi|first=Moin|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=4Y8uBQAAQBAJ&q=kimkhwab&pg=PT29|title=Woven Wonders of the Deccan|date=2014|publisher=Notion Press|isbn=978-93-83808-62-5|language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last=|first=|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=pfJtAAAAMAAJ&q=kimkhwab|title=Students' Britannica India: I to M (Iblis to Mira Bai)|date=2000|publisher=Encyclopaedia Britannica (India)|isbn=|location=|pages=238|language=en}}</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last1=Editors|first1=Britannica|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=94YxAQAAIAAJ&q=kimkhwab|title=The New Encyclopaedia Britannica|last2=inc|first2=Encyclopaedia Britannica|date=2003|publisher=Encyclopaedia Britannica|isbn=978-0-85229-961-6|location=|pages=866|language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|last=|first=|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=_1kOAQAAMAAJ&q=kimkhwab|title=Encyclopedia of India: I to Mira Bai|date=2008|publisher=Encyclopaedia Britannica (India) Pvt. Limited|isbn=978-81-8131-008-8|location=|pages=237|language=en}}</ref>

Kimkhwab is a fabric of silk with leaves and branches woven in it "Kamkwabs, or kimkhwabs (Kincob), are also known as zar-baft (gold-woven), and mushajjar (having patterns)."—Yusuf Ali<ref>{{Cite book|last=Burnell|first=A. C.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Mnl0DwAAQBAJ&newbks=0&printsec=frontcover&pg=PA983&dq=|title=Hobson-Jobson: Glossary of Colloquial Anglo-Indian Words And Phrases|last2=Yule|first2=Henry|date=2018-10-24|publisher=Routledge|year=|isbn=978-1-136-60331-0|location=|pages=983|language=en}}</ref> The mushajjar is also mentioned in [[Ain-i-Akbari]].

== Name ==
“''Kimkhwab''” is a [[Persian language|Persian]] word that means a little dream.

''Hiranya'' means cloth of gold, as mentioned in [[Vedas]] (c. 1500 BC). And in It is called ''puspapata'' during [[Gupta Empire|Gupta empire]] (4th–6th century AD).<ref name=":1" />

== Etymology ==
kimkhwāb derived from Pers. kam-khwāb,<ref>{{Cite book|last=Shakespear|first=John|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ReRGAAAAcAAJ&newbks=0&printsec=frontcover&dq&hl=en|title=A Dictionary Hindustani and English|date=1834|publisher=Parbury, Allen and C°|year=|isbn=|location=|pages=1367, 1368|language=en}}</ref> 'less sleep,' because such cloth is rough and prevents sleep! "The ordinary derivation of the word supposes that a man could not even dream of it who had not seen it (kam, 'little,' khwāb, 'dream')".<ref name=":2">{{Cite book|last=Yule|first=Henry|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-lFoAgAAQBAJ&newbks=0&printsec=frontcover&dq&hl=en|title=Hobson-Jobson: The Definitive Glossary of British India|last2=Burnell|first2=A. C.|date=2013-06-13|publisher=OUP Oxford|year=|isbn=978-0-19-164583-9|location=|pages=299|language=en}}</ref>

Platts and the Madras Gloss. take it from kam, 'little,' khwāb, 'nap.'<ref name=":2" />

== Texture ==
The art has a flavor of Arab-Persian culture in it. The fabric was woven with [[tapestry]] weave, Kimkhwab was nearly thick because of its [[metal]]lic yarns and patterns, but some fine qualities were also there, especially for wealthy people.<ref name=":0" /> The most of the patterns were floral, [[Biomimetics|nature inspired]] such as plants such as the poppy, and pine tree, etc.

== Manufacturing ==
Kimkhwab work of [[Varanasi]], [[Surat]] was famous in [[Mughal Empire|the Mughal Empire]] from 1556 to 1707.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Mukherjee|first=Soma|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=v-2TyjzZhZEC&q=kimkhwab&pg=PA10|title=Royal Mughal Ladies and Their Contributions|date=2001|publisher=Gyan Books|isbn=978-81-212-0760-7|location=|pages=10|language=en}}</ref> Two more centers, Aurangabad and Paithan, were also noted for their production. The value was priced with contents of gold, silver, or silk and motifs.<ref name=":0" /><ref>{{Cite book|last=Hazārah|first=Fayz Muhammad Kātib|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=8tLE4hjSyjEC&q=kimkhwab&pg=PA1937|title=The History of Afghanistan (6 Vol. Set): Fay? Mu?ammad K?tib Haz?rah's Sir?j Al-taw?r?kh|date=2012-12-19|publisher=BRILL|isbn=978-90-04-23491-8|location=|pages=1937|language=en}}</ref>

== See also ==

* [[Clothing in India]]
* [[Brocade]]

== References ==
{{Reflist}}

[[Category:Indian clothing]]
[[Category:Weaving]]

Kimkhwab - Revision history

>Bri at 03:05, 4 July 2021