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{{short description|Indian hand-crafted leather slippers}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=June 2018}}
{{Use Indian English|date=March 2026}}

[[File:Indian chappal, Kolhapur, late 20th century - Bata Shoe Museum - DSC00445.JPG|thumb|223x223px|Kolhapuri chappal]]
'''Kolhapuri chappals''' or '''Kolhapuris''' are [[India]]n [[Folk art#Hand crafted|hand-crafted]], braided leather slip-on [[Sandal|sandals]] that are locally [[Tanning (leather)|tanned]] using [[vegetable dye]]s, and hand-decorated with patterns. They are open-toed, T-strap sandals with a loop to hold the big toe, and a large foot loop forward of the ankle fixed by a cord to an attachment point near the toe loop, made to slip on without any fastening. Braided leather [[Mule (footwear)|Mules]] or braided leather [[shoe]] type designs are also common.

==History==
History has recorded that it was started and designed by the Saudagar family in 1920. The first model which was designed earlier was much thinner than what is available currently and was also known as "Chappal with ears" or "Kanwali" for it had two side flaps. The upper portion of the footwear was intricately designed.

By 18th century, it became very popular as "Kolhapuri".
When this model was sent to a retail store "J.J. and Sons" in South Mumbai, it was very much appreciated and further they ordered for another, then they ordered for another 20 more pairs and it was sold like hot cake in Bombay. Soon there was lot of demand for the Kanwalis in the market and so the Saudagar family extended their work by teaching the artistry to others. This footwear is known in local language as "Pie-taan". By 18th century it became very popular as Kolhapuri and soon after that it was also designed in adjoining towns and cities of Maharashtra.

[[Shahu I]] of Kolhapur [[Maratha Empire]] (and his successor [[Rajaram II of Satara|Rajaram II]]) encouraged the Kolhapuri chappal industry and 29 tanning centres were opened during his reign.<ref name="economictimes"/><ref name="Chappal therapy">{{cite news |last1=Dore |first1=Bhavya |title=Chappal therapy |url=https://bangaloremirror.indiatimes.com/opinion/sunday-read/chappal-therapy/articleshow/69909706.cms |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[Bangalore Mirror]] |date=June 23, 2019 |language=en |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222222938/https://bangaloremirror.indiatimes.com/opinion/sunday-read/chappal-therapy/articleshow/69909706.cms |url-status=live }}</ref>

=== GI tag===
In July 2019, Kolhapuri chappals received a geographical indication tag from the [[Controller General of Patents, Designs & Trade Marks]]. These chappals were first made in [[Kolhapur district|Kolhapur]] [[Maharashtra]] in the original form and design, after that artists from [[Karnataka]] have also been making Kolhapuri chappals when they were under the [[Maratha Empire]]. Districts such as [[Kolhapur district|Kolhapur]], [[Sangli district|Sangli]], [[Satara district|Satara]] and [[Solapur district|Solapur]] districts of [[Maharashtra]] as well as [[Bagalkot]], [[Belgavi]], [[Dharwad district|Dharwad]] and [[Bijapur]] of [[Maharashtra]] [[Karnataka]] border, will only be able to carry the tag of "Kolhapuri chappal".<ref name="economictimes">{{Cite web|url=https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/politics-and-nation/kolhapuris-the-famous-leather-chappal-get-geographical-indication-tag/geographical-indication-tag/slideshow/69855278.cms|title=Kolhapuris: The famous leather chappal get Geographical Indication tag - Geographical Indication tag|date=19 July 2019|website=The Economic Times|access-date=2019-07-21|archive-date=21 July 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190721114230/https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/politics-and-nation/kolhapuris-the-famous-leather-chappal-get-geographical-indication-tag/geographical-indication-tag/slideshow/69855278.cms|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name=toi>{{cite news |last1=Patil |first1=Abhijeet |date=21 June 2019 |title=Kolhapuri chappal gets GI tag after decade-long wait |url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/kolhapur/kolhapuri-chappal-gets-gi-tag-after-decade-long-wait/articleshow/69885776.cms |access-date=25 December 2019 |work=The Times of India |language=en |archive-date=5 January 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200105013906/https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/kolhapur/Kolhapuri-chappal-gets-GI-tag-after-decade-long-wait/articleshow/69885776.cms |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name=newindianexpress>{{cite news |title=Namma Kolhapuri chappal gets GI boost |url=https://www.newindianexpress.com/cities/bengaluru/2019/jun/19/namma-kolhapuri-chappal-gets-gi-boost-1992139.html |access-date=25 December 2019 |work=The New Indian Express |archive-date=25 December 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191225193540/https://www.newindianexpress.com/cities/bengaluru/2019/jun/19/namma-kolhapuri-chappal-gets-gi-boost-1992139.html |url-status=live }}</ref>

==Production process and market==
[[File:Kolhapuri foot wear in Hyderabad, India.jpg|thumb|260x260px|Kolhapuri foot wear in Hyderabad.]]
It can take up to six weeks to make a pair of Kolhapuris,<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.chappals.co.uk/kolhapuri/ |title=Kolhapuri Chappals|publisher=Chappals.co.uk |access-date=28 June 2016 |archive-date=7 July 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160707063147/http://www.chappals.co.uk/kolhapuri/ |url-status=usurped }}</ref> but a worker can make eight to ten pairs a day of less elaborate, everyday ones, which in 2025 sold for [[US$]]8–10 each.<ref name=gupta>{{cite news| last=Gupta | first=Devina | title=Prada: Why Indian footwear artisans are upset with the luxury Italian label |publisher=BBC News | date=4 July 2025 | url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cly801q2pw7o }}</ref> Chappals are traditionally made from [[True buffalo|buffalo]]-hide and thread; no nails are used.<ref name=sangam/> Cow hide has been used, but is controversial due to the place of the [[Cattle in religion and mythology#Sacred status of cow|cow in the Hindu religion]].<ref name=gupta/> There are variations for different purposes, for example versions with a double strap, and extremely soft chappals with a thin sole for walking indoors on carpets. Heavy-duty chappals for people such as farmers can weigh as much as three kilograms; light house versions can weigh 100 grams. In everyday use they last typically about ten months.<ref name=sangam>{{cite news |last=Sangam |first=Sowmya |title=Cool Kolhapuris popular as ever in Hyderabad |url=https://telanganatoday.com/cool-kolhapuris-popular-as-ever-in-hyderabad |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[Telangana Today]] |date=29 January 2021 |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221445/https://telanganatoday.com/cool-kolhapuris-popular-as-ever-in-hyderabad |url-status=live }}</ref>

The manufacture of Kolhapuri chappals involves a series of operations including skiving, pattern making and cutting, the attachment of upper and bottom heels, stitching, finishing, punching and trimming, decoration and polishing, and assembly.{{cn|date=December 2021}} Kolhapuri chappals are known to last a lifetime if maintained well and not used in rainy seasons.

In 2020, the total business market was estimated at around {{INR}}90,000,000 (9 [[crore]]), with over 10,000 artisans working in Kolhapur. Of the total 600,000 pairs produced annually, 30% were exported.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Gayakwad |first1=Rahul |title=Kolhapuri chappal artisans stare at uncertain future |url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/kolhapur/kolhapuri-chappal-artisans-stare-at-uncertain-future/articleshow/76507529.cms |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[The Times of India]] |date=June 22, 2020 |language=en |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221435/https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/kolhapur/kolhapuri-chappal-artisans-stare-at-uncertain-future/articleshow/76507529.cms |url-status=live }}</ref> The designs have moved from the ethnic to ones with more utilitarian value and materials from primal hard materials to softer and more comfortable to wear materials. The artisans themselves designed ethnic patterns and sold, but today the traders and businessmen with demand for cheap products drive the requirement of minimalist designs.{{cn|date=December 2021}}

In recent decades, the business has struggled for survival with market decline, low profits, irregular leather supply, duplicates & fakes, environmental regulations on tanneries, cow slaughter ban, among other issues.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Sriram |first1=Jayant |title=The last original Kolhapuris |url=https://www.thehindu.com/society/the-last-original-kolhapuris/article19231770.ece |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[The Hindu]] |date=8 July 2017 |language=en-IN |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221435/https://www.thehindu.com/society/the-last-original-kolhapuris/article19231770.ece |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |title=Fading footprint of Kolhapuri chappals |url=https://retail.economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/apparel-fashion/footwear/fading-footprint-of-kolhapuri-chappals/50801418 |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=ETRetail.com |date=February 1, 2016 |language=en |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221439/https://retail.economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/apparel-fashion/footwear/fading-footprint-of-kolhapuri-chappals/50801418 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last1=Gokhale |first2=Parth |last2=Welankar |first1=Pratham |title=Iconic Kolhapuri chappals in a fight for survival |url=https://www.hindustantimes.com/mumbai-news/iconic-kolhapuri-chappals-in-a-fight-for-survival/story-OBvTgxmegJ0X0qobb1NQLL.html |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[Hindustan Times]] |date=27 April 2019 |language=en |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221435/https://www.hindustantimes.com/mumbai-news/iconic-kolhapuri-chappals-in-a-fight-for-survival/story-OBvTgxmegJ0X0qobb1NQLL.html |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last1=Nair |first1=Remya |title=Sindoor to papad, lungis to Kolhapuri chappals, it's all made in China today |url=https://theprint.in/economy/sindoor-to-papad-lungis-to-kolhapuri-chappals-its-all-made-in-china-today/217252/ |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[ThePrint]] |date=8 April 2019 |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221435/https://theprint.in/economy/sindoor-to-papad-lungis-to-kolhapuri-chappals-its-all-made-in-china-today/217252/ |url-status=live }}</ref>

== Design and market trends==

In the seventies, with the [[hippie]] movement, Kolhapuri chappals became popular in the [[United States]]. The success faded out and recently came back influencing now models that are called [[toe ring]] sandals.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Paitandy |first1=Priyadarshini |title=Can your footwear be vegan too? |url=https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/luxury/can-your-footwear-be-vegan-too/article28422709.ece |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[The Hindu]] |date=13 July 2019 |language=en-IN |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221435/https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/luxury/can-your-footwear-be-vegan-too/article28422709.ece |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last1=Kulkarni |first1=Dhaval |title=Kolhapuris to get a French accent |url=https://www.dnaindia.com/mumbai/report-kolhapuris-to-get-a-french-accent-2540934 |access-date=22 December 2021 |work=[[DNA India]] |date=August 27, 2017 |language=en |archive-date=22 December 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211222221435/https://www.dnaindia.com/mumbai/report-kolhapuris-to-get-a-french-accent-2540934 |url-status=live }}</ref> A French brand called CHAPPAL exports these traditional sandals in various colors and with a feminine design to France to make it popular in that country.<ref>{{cite news |title=About us Chappal.fr |url=https://chappal.fr/pages/a-propos |language=fr }}</ref>

[[Prada]] sparked a cultural appropriation controversy after including sandals resembling Kolhapuri chappals<ref name=gupta/> in its Spring-Summer 2026 Men's collection, describing them merely as "leather sandals" with no mention of their Indian origins. This omission led to backlash from Indian fashion circles and traditional artisans in Maharashtra, who cited a violation of the GI-tagged footwear's heritage. Following public pressure and a formal complaint by the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), Prada acknowledged the sandals' Indian inspiration and expressed commitment to ethical design, cultural recognition, and possible collaboration with local artisans. The fashion house also stated that the advertised sandals were still at the design stage and had not been finalized for commercial production.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2025-06-28 |title='Sandals featured are still at design stage': Prada breaks silence on Kolhapuri chappal controversy |url=https://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/fashion/prada-finally-breaks-their-silence-on-kolhapuri-chappal-controversy-10093791/ |access-date=2025-06-28 |website=The Indian Express |language=en}}</ref> A PIL has been filed in the Bombay High Court seeking compensation for Kolhapuri chappal artisans. The petition demands a formal public apology, damages, and stricter protections for traditional Indian designs and GI-tagged products.<ref>{{Cite news |title=Prada in legal trouble over Kolhapuri chappals; PIL in Bombay HC seeks apology, artisan payout |url=https://www.livemint.com/news/india/prada-in-legal-trouble-over-kolhapuri-chappals-pil-in-bombay-hc-seeks-apology-artisan-payout-11751615954870.html |work=Mint}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |last1=MacRae |first1=Penelope |title=Prada accused of cashing in on Indian culture with Kolhapuri-inspired sandals |url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2025/jun/30/prada-accused-of-cashing-in-on-indian-culture-with-kolhapuri-inspired-sandals |website=The Guardian |access-date=8 July 2025 |language=en-gb |date=30 June 2025}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |last1=Das |first1=Anupreeta |title=The Prada Sandal That Led to Cries of Cultural Theft in India |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2025/06/30/world/asia/india-prada-sandal.html |website=New York Times |access-date=8 July 2025 |language=en-us |date= 30 June 2025}}</ref>

== Gallery ==
<gallery>
File:Indian chappal, Kolhapur, late 20th century - Bata Shoe Museum - DSC00445.JPG
File:Indian chappal, Kolhapur, late 20th century - Bata Shoe Museum - DSC00448.JPG
File:Indian chappal, Kolhapur, late 20th century - Bata Shoe Museum - DSC00450.JPG
File:Indian chappal, Kolhapur, late 20th century - Bata Shoe Museum - DSC00453.JPG
File:Indian chappal, Kolhapur, late 20th century - Bata Shoe Museum - DSC00452.JPG
File:Kolhapuri Chappals in roadside shop in Kolhapur3.jpg
File:Kolhapuri Chappals in roadside shop in Kolhapur2.jpg
File:Kolhapuri foot wear in Hyderabad, India.jpg
File:Kolhapuri chappals.jpg
File:Kolhapuri Chappals in roadside shop in Kolhapur1.jpg
</gallery>

==See also==
* [[List of shoe styles]]
* [[Kolhapur jaggery]]
* [[Sangli turmeric]]
* [[Sangli raisins]]

==References==
{{Reflist}}

{{footwear}}
{{Clothing in South Asia}}
{{Kolhapur district topics}}

[[Category:Kolhapur]]
[[Category:Belgaum]]
[[Category:Culture of Maharashtra]]
[[Category:Indian footwear]]
[[Category:Kolhapur district]]
[[Category:Geographical indications in Maharashtra]]
[[Category:Slippers]]

Kolhapuri chappal - Revision history

Vitelglobal at 16:22, 7 March 2026