View source for Anglo-Indian cuisine

{{Short description|Cuisine developed during British Raj}}
{{EngvarB|date=January 2019}}{{British cuisine}}
{{Indian cuisine}}
'''Anglo-Indian cuisine''' is the [[cuisine]] that developed during the [[British Raj]] in India.<ref name=Davidson>{{cite book| author=Alan Davidson | editor=Tom Jaine | title=[[The Oxford Companion to Food]] | edition=3rd | location=Oxford | publisher=[[Oxford University Press]] | year=2014 | isbn=0-19-967733-6 | pages=21–22 }}</ref> It was brought to England in the 1930s by the [[Veeraswamy]] restaurant, followed by a few others, but not by typical [[Indian restaurant]]s. The cuisine introduced dishes such as [[kedgeree]], [[mulligatawny]] and pish pash to English palates. One of the few Anglo-Indian foods that has had a lasting impact on [[English cuisine]] is [[chutney]].

Anglo-Indian cuisine was documented in detail by the English colonel [[Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert]], writing in 1885 to advise the [[British Raj]]'s [[Sahib#Colonial and modern use|memsahibs]] what to instruct their Indian cooks to make.<ref name="Davidson" /><ref>{{cite book|author=Wyvern|title=Culinary Jottings for Madras, Or, A Treatise in Thirty Chapters on Reformed Cookery for Anglo-Indian Exiles|publisher=Prospect Books|year=1994|isbn=0-907325-55-6|edition=Facsimile of 5th|author-link=Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert|orig-year=1885}}</ref> Many of its usages are described in the "wonderful"<ref name="Davidson" /> 1886 Anglo-Indian dictionary, ''[[Hobson-Jobson]]''.<ref name="Davidson" /> More recently, the cuisine has been analysed by Jennifer Brennan in 1990 and David Burton in 1993.<ref name="Davidson" /><ref>{{cite book|last1=Brennan|first1=Jennifer|title=Encyclopaedia of Chinese and Oriental Cookery|date=1990|publisher=Black Cat}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|author=Jennifer Brennan|title=Curries and Bugles, A Memoir and Cookbook of the British Raj|date=1990|publisher=Viking|isbn=962-593-818-4}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Burton|first1=David|title=The Raj at Table|date=1993|publisher=Faber & Faber}}</ref>

==History==
During the [[British India|British rule in India]], local British officials began mixing Indian dishes with their British palates and creating Anglo-Indian cuisine, with dishes such as [[kedgeree]] (1790)<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.nls.uk/year-of-food-and-drink/october |title=Sustainable shore - October recipe - Year of Food and Drink 2015 - National Library of Scotland |work=nls.uk}}</ref> and [[mulligatawny soup]] (1791).<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Roy |first1=Modhumita |title=Some Like It Hot: Class, Gender and Empire in the Making of Mulligatawny Soup |journal=Economic and Political Weekly |date=7 August 2010 |volume=45 |issue=32 |pages=66–75 |jstor=20764390}}</ref><ref name="Cooking under the Raj">{{cite web |url=http://www.india-seminar.com/2006/566/566_david_housego.htm |title=Cooking under the Raj |access-date=30 January 2008}}</ref> The first Indian restaurant in England, the [[Hindoostane Coffee House]], opened in 1809<ref>{{cite news |last1=Jahangir |first1=Rumeana |title=How Britain got the hots for curry |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/8370054.stm |publisher=[[British Broadcasting Corporation]] |access-date=27 September 2016 |date=26 November 2009 |quote="Indian dishes, in the highest perfection… unequalled to any curries ever made in England." So ran the 1809 newspaper advert for a new eating establishment in an upmarket London square popular with colonial returnees.}}</ref> in London; as described in [[The Epicure's Almanack]] in 1815, "All the dishes were dressed with curry powder, rice, Cayenne, and the best spices of Arabia. A room was set apart for smoking hookahs with oriental herbs".<ref>''The Epicure's Almanack'', Longmans, 1815, pages 123-124.</ref> Indian food was cooked at home from a similar date as cookbooks of the time, including the 1758 edition of [[Hannah Glasse]]'s ''[[The Art of Cookery]]'', attest.<ref>{{cite book |last=Dickson Wright |first=Clarissa |author-link=Clarissa Dickson Wright |date=2011 |title=A History of English Food  |publisher=Random House |isbn=978-1-905-21185-2 |title-link=A History of English Food |pages=304–305}}</ref>

==Dishes==
{{further|English cuisine#Indian and Anglo-Indian cuisine|List of chutneys}}

Well-known Anglo-Indian dishes include chutneys, [[salt]]ed [[beef tongue]], [[kedgeree]],<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.nls.uk/year-of-food-and-drink/october |title=Sustainable shore - October recipe - Year of Food and Drink 2015 - National Library of Scotland |work=nls.uk}}</ref> ball curry, fish [[rissole]]s, and [[mulligatawny soup]].<ref name=Davidson/><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Roy |first1=Modhumita |title=Some Like It Hot: Class, Gender and Empire in the Making of Mulligatawny Soup |journal=Economic and Political Weekly |date=7 August 2010 |volume=45 |issue=32 |pages=66–75 |jstor=20764390}}</ref><ref name="Cooking under the Raj"/>

[[Chutney]], one of the few Indian dishes that has had a lasting influence<ref name=Davidson/> on [[English cuisine]], is a cooked and sweetened but not highly spiced preparation of fruit, nuts or vegetables. It borrows from a tradition of jam making where an equal amount of sour fruit and refined sugar reacts with the pectin in the fruit such as sour apples or rhubarb, the sour note being provided by vinegar. [[Major Grey's Chutney]] is typical.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Bateman |first1=Michael |title=Chutneys for Relishing |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/chutneys-for-relishing-1310363.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220507/https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/chutneys-for-relishing-1310363.html |archive-date=2022-05-07 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live |access-date=26 September 2016 |work=[[The Independent]] |date=17 August 1996}}{{cbignore}}</ref>

Pish pash was defined by ''Hobson-Jobson'' as "a slop of rice-soup with small pieces of meat in it, much used in the Anglo-Indian nursery". The term was first recorded by [[Augustus Prinsep]] in the mid 19th century.<ref>{{cite web|title=pish-pash|url=https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/us/pish-pash|publisher=Oxford Dictionaries|access-date=22 January 2017}}</ref> The name comes from the Persian ''pash-pash'', from ''pashidan'', to break.<ref>{{cite book|last=Davidson|first=Alan|title=The Oxford Companion to Food|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=RL6LAwAAQBAJ&pg=PA22|year=2014|publisher=Oxford University Press|isbn=978-0-19-967733-7|page=22}}</ref> A version of the dish is given in ''[[The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie]]'' of 1909.<ref name=Davidson/>

==Restaurants==
{{further|English cuisine#Indian and Anglo-Indian cuisine}}

Some early restaurants in England, such as the Hindoostane Coffee House on George Street, [[London]], which opened in 1810, served Anglo-Indian food.
Many Indian restaurants, however, have reverted to the standard mix-and-match Indian dishes that are better known to the British public.

==References==
{{Reflist|30em}}

==Further reading==
* {{cite book |title=Anglo-Indian Food and Custom |author=Patricia Brown |isbn=0-14-027137-6 |ref=none }}
* {{cite book |title=A Curry Book (Anglo-Indian Cookery at Home) |orig-year=1895 |author=Henrietta Hervey |location=Ludlow |publisher=Excellent Press |year=2006 |isbn=978-1-900318-33-4 |ref=none }}
* {{cite book |title=Taste of the Raj |author=Pat Chapman |author-link=Pat Chapman |publisher=[[Hodder & Stoughton]] |location=London |isbn=0-340-68035-0 |year=1997 |ref=none }}

==External links==
* [http://www.bl.uk/learning/histcitizen/foodstories/index.html "Food Stories"] — Explore a century of revolutionary change in UK food culture on the [[British Library]]'s Food Stories website
* {{cite web |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/8370054.stm |title=How Britain got the hots for curry |work=[[BBC News Online|BBC News Magazine]] |date=26 November 2009 |access-date=15 August 2014 }}
* {{cite web |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-south-asia-12369759 |title=Fears for the decline of Anglo-Indian cooking |work=[[BBC News Online]] |date=7 February 2011 |access-date=15 August 2014 }}
* [https://www.travelchef.org/ "Indian Food"] —  Authentic Indian Cuisine in the UK.
{{cuisine}}
* [https://www.holycowonline.com/ "Best Indian Restaurant in London"] — Have a look to the best Indian food restaurants in London to the [[History_of_Indian_cuisine]]'s Holy Cow website
[[Category:Anglo-Indian cuisine| ]]
[[Category:British fusion cuisine]]
[[Category:Indian fusion cuisine]]