Khandua (Also Maniabandi or Kataki) is a traditional "bandha" or ikat sari produced from Odisha [1][2][3][4][5] worn by women during wedding [6][7] and a special type of which is worn by Jagannath. The clothes contain texts of Gita Govinda on them. [8] Kenduli Khandua, a special form of Khandua of 12 ft and 2 kani (each kani measures the length of a hand) is offered to Jagannath to wear as khandua with stanzas and illustration from Gita Govinda. [9][10]
Etymology
The word Khandua in Odia translates to the cloth worn in the lower half of the body. Traditionally Kentuli Khandua is offered to Jagannath as lower cloth. Due to the place of origin is Cuttak and Maniabandha, the other two names Kataki and Maniabandhi are originated.[10]
History
Weaver communities of Maniabandha and Nuapatana[10][11] of Cuttack traditionally weave this kind of pata. During the rule of Gajapatis Sarees are made and transported to Jagannath Temple. Nilakantha Deva, the king of Badakhemundi was offered khandua sari made of one piece of khandua silk called caukandika.[12][13]
Color and Design
Khandua is traditionally red or orange in color. The red color is prepared naturally from the shorea robusta (sal tree). [7] The design motif has an auspicious elephant that represents Buddha surrounded by trailing vine with peacocks in it, a large many petaled flower, a unique Orissan animal called Nabagunjara, a deula kumbha. The elephant in Khandua ikat from Nuapatana usually varies from elephant motives in ikat from Sambalpuri sari as well as ikat from other parts of Orissa.[14] Khandua has plain borders in contrary to borders with motifs in case of the other ikat of Orissa. [15]
References
- ↑ Tropical Wild Silk Cocoons Of India{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Daya Publishing House(1 January 2003). ISBN 978-81-7035-298-3
- ↑ The Indian textile journal{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Business Press.(1999)
- ↑ The sari: styles, patterns, history, techniques{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. H.N. Abrams(October 1995). ISBN 978-0-8109-4461-9
- ↑ Ikat textiles of India{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Chronicle Books(1 December 1988). ISBN 978-0-87701-548-2
- ↑ Orissa{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Museum Rietberg(1980)
- ↑ Textile arts of India: Kokyo Hatanaka collection{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Chronicle Books(1996). ISBN 978-0-8118-1084-5
- ↑ 7.0 7.1 Handmade in India: A Geographic Encyclopedia of India Handicrafts{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Abbeville Press(29 September 2009). ISBN 978-0-7892-1047-0
- ↑ Golden sprays and scarlet flowers: traditional Indian textiles from the Museum of Ethnography, Basel, Switzerland{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Shikosha Pub. Co.(1986)
- ↑ Encyclopaedia of Education, Culture and Children's Literature: v. 3. Indian culture and education{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Deep & Deep Publications(2009). ISBN 978-81-8450-150-6
- ↑ Arts of Asia{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Arts of Asia Publications.(July 1982)
- ↑ Kings and cults: state formation and legitimation in India and Southeast Asia{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Manohar Publishers & Distributors(1993)
- ↑ The Sacred centre as the focus of political interest: proceedings of the symposium held on the occasion of the 375th anniversary of the University of Groningen, 5–8 March 1989{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. E. Forsten(1992). ISBN 978-90-6980-036-3
- ↑ Two faces of South Asian art: textiles and paintings{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Elvehjem Museum of Art(1 December 1984)
- ↑ Saris of India: Madhya Pradesh{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Wiley Eastern & Amr Vastra Kosh(1989). ISBN 978-81-224-0187-5