Template:Infobox geographical indication
Bhavani Jamakkalam refers to blankets and carpets manufactured in Bhavani in Erode district, Tamil Nadu.[1][2] It has been recognized as a Geographical indication by the Government of India in 2005–06.[3]
History
In the late nineteenth century, competition from British made textiles led Indian weavers to invent new types of garments.[2] In Bhavani, a community of weavers called Jangamars weaved a type of blanket using colored coarse threads called Jamakkalam.[4] The popularity of the product led to the production of jamakkalams by other weavers replacing the production of traditional sarees and other cloths.[4]
Types
Two types of jamakkalams are produced in Bhavani.[5] The first type is made from coarser cotton threads capable of producing carpets with colored bands.[5] As the thread was coarser, designs could not be weaved on to this type of carpet.[5] Hence, a second softer variety of jamakkalams were introduced that were made of artificial silk threads enabling weavers to weave different kinds of border designs.[5] Jamakkalams are also used to make fashion products such as backpacks.[6]
Community
Traditionally, jamakkalams were weaved by independent weavers in their houses.[7] Later it moved into a system where jamakkalam is weaved by weavers on hand-looms supervised by master weavers.[8] The master weavers lease hand-looms and contract weavers. The hand-looms are owned by trade merchants who procure raw materials such as thread from neighboring cities of Coimbatore, Salem and Karur.[9] About 1500 workers are involved in the production of jamakkalams with women forming two-thirds of the work force.[10]
Weaving loom
A pit loom is used to weave jamakkalams.[10] The looms are made of wood with the threads stretched horizontally from end to end.[10] The weaver sits in a pit dug in the ground, on level with the weaving surface.[10] The weaver operates two pedals with his legs while enabling the hands to move the shuttle across to produce the weaving pattern.[10]
Exports
The jamakkalams manufactured in Bhavani are exported to various countries such as Sweden, Germany, Italy, U.K., U.S. and Singapore.[11] In 1993, Swedish major IKEA started procuring jamakkalams from Bhavani to be sold across its stores.[11]
Competition
Since the 2000s, the hand weaved jamakkalams from Bhavani have faced competition from power-loom products.[12] The Government of Tamil Nadu offers subsidy to weavers and has enacted laws to outlaw the use of power-looms.[12] The government also sells the blankets through government run Co-optex stores. Competition from blankets produced in Solapur, Maharashtra and cheap imports from neighbors China, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka has resulted in drop in demand for Bhavani jamakkalams.[12]
Geographical Indication
In 2005, the Government of Tamil Nadu applied for Geographical Indication for Bhavani jamakkalams.[13] The Government of India recognized it as a Geographical indication officially since the year 2005–06.[3]
References
- ↑ The worlds of Indian industrial labour{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}
- ↑ 2.0 2.1 The Everyday Politics of Labour{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}
- ↑ 3.0 3.1 Geographical indications of India. Government of India. Retrieved 28 June 2015.
- ↑ 4.0 4.1 The Everyday Politics of Labour{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}
- ↑ 5.0 5.1 5.2 5.3 The Everyday Politics of Labour{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}
- ↑ When passion met fashion. The Hindu(13 April 2014).
- ↑ The Everyday Politics of Labour{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}
- ↑ The Everyday Politics of Labour{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}
- ↑ The Everyday Politics of Labour{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}
- ↑ 10.0 10.1 10.2 10.3 10.4 The Everyday Politics of Labour{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}
- ↑ 11.0 11.1 Globalizing India: Perspectives from Below{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}
- ↑ 12.0 12.1 12.2 No takers for Erode blankets. Deccan Chronicle(31 March 2013).
- ↑ GI tag: TN trails Karnataka with 18 products. The Times of India(29 August 2013).
Template:Geographical indications in Tamil Nadu Template:Kongu Nadu
Bibliography
- The Everyday Politics of Labour: Working Lives in India's Informal Economy{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Berghahn Books(2005). ISBN 9788187358183
- The worlds of Indian industrial labour{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Sage Publications(2000). ISBN 9780761993957
- Globalizing India: Perspectives from Below{{#if:|, {{{last}}}}. Anthem Press(2005). ISBN 9780857287243